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In another discussion topic a gentleman asked about attaching wood joist to the side of a Steel I-beam.
It was filled with great information.
In my case we are looking to use a steel I-Beam which will carry 2nd floor I-Joist (living space) on one side and wood joist (balcony deck)on the other side. The Balcony deck will be above living space and we are looking for any proven ideas for waterproofing this deck.
To complicate things more we’re thinking of making the deck out of light weight concrete and covering it with 18″ limestone tiles.
There is a load bearing wall above the I-Beam which will have windows and a pair of French doors leading out to the balcony.
If you haven’t guessed this is going to be a very large and spendy new home and we are still working out some of the design ideas.
We have given thought to bolting material to the web, this also would allow us to transfer shear to the I-beam from the wall bearing on it.
Has anyone done anything similar to this? Any good waterproofing ideas?
Any ideas on creating a separation between the concrete deck and waterproof deck for flexibility We’re not stuck on having a concrete deck, but we don’t want wood or Trex type products.
We want stone, tile, maybe stamped concrete… etc.
Howie
Replies
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Hi Howie,
This is one of those times when you have to spend a few bucks and get the advise of your local design "Engineer" for an ONSITE evaluation and solution.
This is a structural problem that must be site evaluated.
Gabe
*Howie:Gabe is absolutely right. We have done lots of tie in to red iron work and every engineer has their own preference- full web pack out vs top mount hangers, floating sub slabs, floating finish slabs, etc. There really is no excuse for upscale building without a full set of structurals
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We did this, except that it was all inside, so I can't speak to
waterproofing the outside. Also suggest deferring to an engineer, but
here's what our engineer had us do.
We had a W14 x 43 beam with 14" TJI's off each side. Didn't want a top
nailer plate. We welded Simpson hangers to the beam. Gotta get the
special hanger that's made to be welded--not the typical galvanized
ones. Worked great.
The engineer told us where we needed fillers and web stiffeners, etc.
Also made sure the load was balanced so that excessive weight on one
side wouldn't twist the beam.
FWIW, we _did_ use stamped concrete on our porch. Weren't trying to
fool anyone, but I'm AMAZED at how often a mason visited our house and
said, "Wow, great slate work!"
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regarding waterproof-our current job has a driveway over living space
as well as trick entry with pavers over radiant heat in final slab
over structural slab over living space. The folks who do the
foundation insulation and waterproofing will spray a membrane which
they absolutely guarantee for elasticity- it sprays on the structural
slab and up my P.T. wall sheathing.
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Hi Curtis,
Would you have more information on this spray on waterproof membrane or the company that supplies this product. I haven't ever run across this type of product in our area before so I'm kind of pessimistic about any of our concrete or insulation companys ever using this before.
Do you think that it could be sprayed over a sealed 3/4" plywood deck?
I was going to then put a stamped concrete deck over that.
Thanks for the Info and if you could e-mail with the product name it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Again!
Howie
[email protected]
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Howie- the name of the product is 'liquid boot'- this stuff better be
good - on our project it will be used to seal under a finish
flagstone/slab driveway which forms the roof of a large theatre. it
will also be sprayed up several frame and sheathed wood walls which
are the substrate behind rock faced planters connected to the
house...this is a very upscale home in a ski town- lots of snow,
susequent melt- would be one hell of a warranty callback.
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Howie
I assume you are ripping the dimensional lumber at least 1/4" per foot for slope to drain water. Then 3/4" ACX ply ( I have seen 1- 1/8" here as well). This will be glued and screwed. Out here in the great Pacific Northwet we typically use a system called Gaco-flex, that is a two-part waterproofing membrane. The first step is to flash at the building, then a primer coat that fills any voids in the seams etc..., and finally a vinyl based waterproofing membrane that is rolled over all. My waterproofer claims 15 years before his first maintenance visit. You'll probably want this expensive deck level as you step out onto it, so the pavers will sit on a pedestal system that will correct for the slope below that is running the water to whatever your drain system is. This pedestal system is usually 1/8" thick at its thinnest (at the building) and gets thicker as the slope falls off from the building. Each pedestal picks up the corner of four pavers. This is a great system for isolating the pavers from the waterproof membrane, and allowing for expansion and contraction of the whole deck. Gaco-flex accomodates this movement by its design.
This will require forethought, to make finish deck come out at the correct height from the living room, (deck joists below adjacent TJI).
Shear transfer is usually done with hold-downs on stud-packs or posts, and attached to welded studs on top of WFB. Besides, you'll not want to attach the deck joist to ply anyway. The teco nail should go right into lumber for a good bite.
Get your architect to draw this one out well. The interior plywood will need to sheet over the top of a 2x6 nailer that is carriage bolted to t.o.steel. This will allow your exterior wall to get shear base plate nailing to the WFB. So top of interior TJI are 1-1/2" above t.o.steel. We have had good success filling steel web with Simpson LVL. It is very consistent in its dimensions.
good luck. Provide your framer with good details here, as he'll be irked at figuring this out for you.
.
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In another discussion topic a gentleman asked about attaching wood joist to the side of a Steel I-beam.
It was filled with great information.
In my case we are looking to use a steel I-Beam which will carry 2nd floor I-Joist (living space) on one side and wood joist (balcony deck)on the other side. The Balcony deck will be above living space and we are looking for any proven ideas for waterproofing this deck.
To complicate things more we're thinking of making the deck out of light weight concrete and covering it with 18" limestone tiles.
There is a load bearing wall above the I-Beam which will have windows and a pair of French doors leading out to the balcony.
If you haven't guessed this is going to be a very large and spendy new home and we are still working out some of the design ideas.
We have given thought to bolting material to the web, this also would allow us to transfer shear to the I-beam from the wall bearing on it.
Has anyone done anything similar to this? Any good waterproofing ideas?
Any ideas on creating a separation between the concrete deck and waterproof deck for flexibility We're not stuck on having a concrete deck, but we don't want wood or Trex type products.
We want stone, tile, maybe stamped concrete... etc.
Howie