Replies

1. 
   woodroe | Jul 15, 2006 02:57am | #1

   Are the redwood boards tongue and groove? How much deflecton and squeaking occurring when you walk on the floor? [squeaking is indicative of deflection]

   If there is substantial movement in the current floor, going parallel will add a mimimal amount of strength, but I think the downside is worse, more squeaking and movement where new joints occur over the existing ones. Don't even consider this if the redwood is not tongue and groove.

   Generally, it is always better to go perpendicular. This will distribute the walking loads to more joists, and reduce squeaking. 4' is a pretty big span for redwood, the danger in running perpendicular is that as people and things move across the floor the redwood subfloor will deflect, and over time the nails are going to loosen creating alot of squeaking. The best thing would be to glue a layer of plywood on first [perpendicular]. But, I'm sure this creates an issue with the height of the top riser.

   Lastly, if you do go directly over the redwood you might want to consider sealing the redwood if it has never previously been finished. [be careful not to put on so much it drips through below] This will help minimize seasonal movement due to moisture related wood movement [but by no strech of the imagination eliminate it].

1. 
   ands | Jul 16, 2006 08:05am | #2

   Thanks Woodroe,

   The redwood subfloor is tounge and groove (T&G) and has minimal deflection. You've got me thinking about putting down some plywood underlayment tho.

   What sort of wood sealer are you recomending? I kinda want to keep it simple, but I don't want a floor that squeeks, creaks, or cracks.

   On a related note I have some subfloor dryrot in the bathroom. I have removed the suspect section (near the tub) but I cannot find the full dimensional T&G subfloor around here( Eureka, CA). Would it be O.K. to hanger some 2x6 joists off the existing 4x8 joists, 16" o.c. and sheet with plywood?

   Ah remodels... 

2. 
   vinniegoombatz | Jul 18, 2006 02:24am | #3

    

   don't go parallel with the subfloor because the long seams will open up on the new flooring    remember to stack new flooring in work area for at least a week to acclimate

   safest bet is to set the new flooring on a diagonal to the subfloor planks   best of both worlds, pickup load-bearing from joist beams and subfloor, also, long seams do not open up on new flooring   ditto on sealing the subfloor, also use 6" overlapped courses of rosin paper on subfloor before new flooring install, will help stop dirt infiltration to below. even t&g planks will drop particulate, rosin paper helps stop this

   p.s.  is the redwood subfloor worth sanding out and keeping as finish floor??  killer flooring

   vinnie

    

1. 
   ands | Jul 18, 2006 06:36pm | #4

   Thanks Vinnie,

   The diagonal idea is cool I will think about that. The exsitng Redwood subfloor is not an option for a refinished floor. The origional massive elephant tracks, rusty nail heads, knot holes, stains, near proximity to moldy crawlspace and funky seams rule that out. The house is small, 1200 sq. ft. and I am doing ~1100 s.f. in tan oak. The flooring is currently on site aclimating while I get the plumbing, electrical, insulation, drywall, and paint done--it should be well aclimated by the time I put it down.

   The framing is 1 3/4 thick and at this point I am leaning towards putting down some plywood underlayment. An extra 1/4"  or 3/8" will still give me nailing for sheetrock on the base plate and there are no stairs (ranch style home). Woodroe got me thinking that $300-$400 in plywood and a day's work putting in underlayment would help this instalation.

   In terms of underlayment does the tar paper go between the subfloor and the underlayment or between the underlayment and the flooring? Will 1/4" ply serve for this purpose?

   Thanks for the tips

   Ands