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Garage stem wall was poured with a 2-2.5 ” gradual elevation difference front to rear .
What are my options to bring the sill plate level?
Use an oscillating multitool to remove and replace the cracked section.
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Replies
What does the concrete contractor have to say? That's a pretty serious defect and repair should be on him. It could be saw cut level and you'd have to use wedge bolts or anchors since the embedded bolts would get cut off too. I suppose it could be formed and grouted but I wouldn't like that on my own house. If you've got an engineer now would be a good time for a professional opinion.
He said Build the wall taller at the low spots. I wasnt thriled about this response. His second suggestion was to grind ( thats alot of grinding). Im now having him look into cutting.
Here's a Q&A from JLC on the topic. The variation in foundation height is significantly less that what you have, but this may be helpful
Q. Recently we contracted to do a house with precast foundation walls that were set out of level — up to 3/4 inch over 30 feet, in some places. What’s the best way to shim and air-seal the mudsill?
A. Tim Uhler, a lead framer for Pioneer Builders in Port
Orchard, Wash., responds: Because out-of-level foundation walls
really slow down production, I always make it a point to check new
foundations before my crew begins framing; if there are problems,
I immediately point them out to the foundation sub and general
contractor. When the walls are more than 1/4 inch out of level, the
foundation contractor typically should take care of the problem,
either by grinding down the high spots or filling in the low spots.
Grinding down high spots isn’t any fun, but filling in low spots
isn’t that difficult. One option is to use Quikrete’s FastSet grout
(800/282-5828, quikrete.com), a nonshrinking portland cement–
based grout that can be mixed to a fluidlike consistency, making it a self-leveling product. If the foundation sub can’t fix your
problem, clamp 2x4s to both sides of the top of each out-of-level
wall running the length of the foundation, snap level lines, and
pour in the grout up to the lines. After a couple of hours, you can
set your mudsills.
If the foundation is less than 1/2 inch out of level, we just set the
mudsills normally — first installing a foam gasket underneath the
sill — and tighten down the anchor-bolt nuts. If the low spot is longer than the rim stock we have available, we nail the rim together,
set it and string the top, and then shim the rim to the line. If the low
spot is localized, we just use a piece of rim long enough to span it.
Then we install plastic or composite shims between the mudsill
and the rim joist on the joist layout, leveling and supporting both
the rim joist and floor joists at the same time. Expanding foam
— from either a can or the insulation sub’s spray gun — seals the
cracks between the mudsill and the rim joist.
Another option is to leave out the foam gasket in the area that
is out of level and shim between the mudsill and the foundation
(though this may not work if the anchor bolts are set too low).
Shim every 4 feet or so to level the sill and install shims under
the ends of each joist. After the sill is shimmed straight, use
expanding foam to seal the low spots between the concrete and
the mudsill.
Shim your plate level with steel washers then pack under it with non-shrink grout. Not really a big deal.
And who dime should this shiming and grout be on? The thick metal shims are around $300 for a box of 50 and no shrink grout is about $15-30 abag.
You asked for an option an Andy gave you one. I get that your frustrated, but what’s done is done. If I were you, i would see if the concrete contractor would give you some credit back to do the repair yourself, then you’d know it was done correctly and to your tolerances.
I value the opinions given . Just was curious on who should be responsible for this financially. Extra time to frame it as is and to cut every stud to match the elevation change along with extra time to cut the bottoms of the plywood to match.
Extra time and materials to shim and grout
Have it cut by a specialist at 2500
Have you paid the concrete guy yet? If not, make the fix and deduct the cost from his final payment. Frankly, this isn't something I'd get too worked up about. In terms of construction issues, this one is easily addressed.
As a retired P.Eng., you now see why (reasonable) specs have to be written into the contract. If you had an architect draw or review/modify purchased plans for submission to acquire a permit, all the specs for a satisfactory job, that would also meet your expectations for performance, fit and finish, should have been included. If there is no architect involved, I'd go with MisterEd1957's recommendation.
Hopefully you have a 10% mechanic's lien holdback. The contractor either does the job properly or he isn't paid the full amount and has to go to court and try to convince a judge that 2-2 1/2 inches out of level is a "workmanlike manner". Hopefully that wording is also in your contract.
A mechanics lien holdback? Where is that still done? I haven't heard of that in over 40 years.
I've never seen it done. And I would not place myself in a contractual situation where I was subject to one.