All
I am pricing out a garage addition. The farm house has 4″ cedar siding with 2.5″ reveal. The paint is peeling pretty badly. Lady is 80 years old, but spry. She wants the extra garage for her Ford expedition
I would like to put a Hardie Panel type siding on to match. I will start new siding from the trim board on existing door so I don’t have to tie them directly together.
The best my lumberyard could reccommend was to rip down 8″ Hardi planks and then apply that.
Do any of you know of a product that would work for this application where I don’t have to rip it or apply 8″ or 12″ wide panels that replicate the 2.5″ reveal.
That’s for the help.
attached is a pic of the house. New garage will go to the right of existing.
Rich
Replies
This is a tough one I think. You can get hardi down to 5 1/4 inches, designed for a 4" lap. But dropping the exposure would create problems.
I would be looking at primed bevel cedar if I were you.
Marson
Thanks for the reply.
I also posted to Mike Maines about using cedar.
Rich
It looks like the existing garage has some sort of drop siding, or a different reveal? Could you match that instead?
Mike
Garage is the same as house.
Rich
I don't see any corner boards--can that be done with Hardi?
Mike
No existing corner boards. Metal cap pieces.
New garage would extend 4' deeper than existing, so I don't have to tie in on the back.
I can install a inside corner board.
The front garage door trim goes to the soffit, which is open rafter tails and T&G exposed.
This is on a farm and i don't think exact replication is a requirement.
Rich
Strip the old siding off the end of the existing garage, use that for the front of the addition so it matches perfectly. Then do something different for the side and back of the new garage."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Eddie
Strip the old siding off the end of the existing garage, use that for the front of the addition so it matches perfectly.
You're better than me if you can strip that off and reuse it.
It usually tears up pretty bad when you try to pull it off.
I used to remove siding to insulate and then reinstall.
This stuff is usually pretty fragile.
The existing paint is peeling badly.
Rich
Go with cedar, or western hemlock.
Mike
4" cedar is $.70 a LF or $336 per sq.
The 8" hardi is $155 per sq. I would have the extra labor of ripping down about 6 sq of hardi to do the job.
Plus I would be have to back prime the cedar if I was going to get paint to stay on.
Then I should probably strip the wall and use a rain screen MO. I haven't done that yet. I have never seen it done around here except in FHB and JLC.
Most of my clients are vinyl siding types.
I don't think we have access to western hemlock.
I am not trying to argue my limitations I am just trying to figure out what is the best siding for the customer.
Rich
I can't imagine the mess from ripping down that much Hardi. Is 6" cedar any cheaper than 4"? Ripping the cedar down wouldn't be bad.
We always order our cedar vertical grain and primed on all sides.
Is your area very wet? If you're not in Seattle or a similarly super-wet climate, you shouldn't need the full-bore rain screen. It's never a bad thing, just overkill in most situations. Use Tyvek's Drainwrap or Obdyke's Housewrap if you're worried.
Mike
Is your area very wet? If you're not in Seattle or a similarly super-wet climate, you shouldn't need the full-bore rain screen. It's never a bad thing, just overkill in most situations. Use Tyvek's Drainwrap or Obdyke's Housewrap if you're worried.
No not super wet.
Iowa. Super wet at times, super dry other times. Very hot and humid and very cold and dry in the winter.
We always order our cedar vertical grain and primed on all sides.
Now tha's a good idea. Don't know if it is availalbe primed. I have always see people prime their own.
We don't get out much here in Iowa. It's rare to see anyone use bevel cedar siding anymore. Everyone wants maintenance free .
Rich
Looks like the old triple lap siding. 3 pieces milled onto one piece. Don't know about available material in your area, but isn't there a finger jointed material that could be run to that pattern? If you have enough footage set up and milling charges are not that much and you will have a matching addition.
John
John
Looks like the old triple lap siding. 3 pieces milled onto one piece.
I don't know what you are refering to.
We used to have a 3 tiered Masonite or Color Lok product similar to what you are describing.
If you have enough footage set up and milling charges
Not much in the way of saw mills around here. Looking at 6 sq of siding.
Rich