hey all you electricians….is there a legal way to terminate a bx cable into an “extension cord” plug end?……I have an electricc message board reader that is normally surface mounted on a stud wall….client needs it recessed in, and there isn’t enough depth inside it to mount a shallow box (which a 12v transformer plugs into)…..
the winner gets a coupla new t-shirts……..if they want ’em…..
thanks……
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I would look at alternates.
Make a cavity in the wall to the side (or top or bottom) to the recess hold the box and transformer. The DW would cover it when the sign is in place.
Or you could build a picture frame to cover it.
I thought about making a small niche on the inside side of the big niche as you suggest, but it would show from the front....I think we will have the supplier remake the display board so it has mounting flanges.....then we just cut a hole in the rock, mount a j-box inside, & we're done....in an ideal world the message board would be in it's own UL listed enclosure, & have the stepdown transformer integral to the circuit board......
That whole message board has a kind of thick, clunky, 1970's look to it. What kind of data feed does it get? What's the rest of the system that drives it? Perhaps you could use a generic flat screen computer display instead.
-- J.S.
What your facing is a pretty standard problem, how to get surface mounted equipment into the wall, flush mounted, in a neat and workmanlike manner.
First thing I would do would be to contact the manufacturer of the equipment. Some have mounts, transition flanges or alternative cases that can make the job easy because they are engineered to handle the situation. No need to reinvent the wheel if you don't have to. Once saw a case where we, I was junior at the time, invented a solution. It didn't look bad and it worked fine but you could tell it was a compromise trying to make the best of situation that the manufacturer had not designed the case for.
Several days later we were in a supply house and mentioned the problem. Pretty proud we had come up with a solution. The counter man opened up the manufacturers catalog and pointed to a case which would have allowed us flush mount the equipment much more quickly and a lot more easily. Ending up with a nicer installation. None had considered that he manufacturer may have already designed a solution.
We were embarrassed we hadn't thought to check with the manufacturer. The time spent inventing a solution cost the customer more. And they ended up with a second rate, if not unworkable or ugly, solution. A lesson learned.
Of course after you find out the manufacturer can offer no relief, most cases there are limited options, you have only lost the price of a telephone call.
An option is to arrange a box, larger than the outside dimensions of the equipment case plus some to accommodate the power plug and to mount the data connection and a receptacle facing into this box. These would face into the box their faces being perpendicular to the face of the wall. I would go with a steel box as they tend to be narrower and so would preserve more of the 3-1/2" space, flat face of a 2by4, your likely cutting into. Also more resistant to nails and screws. Something to consider even after mounting dedicated nail plates.
With the right box and some skill you should have about 5/8" of framing meat remaining on both sides of this box. Which should make the exterior of the box frame plenty strong still. A standard cover plate is real close to 2-3/4" so you have room even discounting that the walls facing drywall adds 1/2" or 5/8" space to the front. Not that I would drift the electrical box forward. Better to preserve the structure of the framing.
Mounting the boxes, power and data on the edge of the recessed enclosure you could locate these on any of the four edges. Facing up makes plugging and unplugging easy but can be an issue if dust or splashing water are present also an issue if the alcove becomes a catch-all for miscellaneous and odd keys, change, etc, as these can short out plugs if the male plugs drift out a bit exposing the live copper of the cord cap. On the side/s makes a nice installation but can demand extra width that framing or wall space can make difficult. If you have the space this is the way I would go.
Mounted facing down these boxes are harder to work on and to plug the equipment into but it guarantees there is little chance loose keys shorting anything out or water splashing onto live connection. And generally there is more room vertically both for wall space and accommodation of the wall framing.
Once the recessed box is prepared, electrical and data boxes installed and equipment mounted you can mount a framed picture, hinged for convenience, or wall hanging to make things more finished.
Reading other post it sounds like the sign goes over the hole so no need for hangings or pictures.
Hope this helps. Let us know how things work out.
Edited to ad next-to-last block.
Edited 8/12/2005 7:16 pm ET by 4Lorn1
Is there any chance that the transformer will fit in a clock recessed box? Maybe a large junction box with a metal box mounted sideways inside?