Im putting down 9/16 bamboo flooring over 1 1/8 plywood,on 4×6 joists that are 48″oc. Im look ing for the easiest way to beef up his floor to prevent any sagging.
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Replies
2 X 6 headers between joists perhaps?
Why 1 1/8 ply? That's serious stuff.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
I'm guessing it has to do with that 48" span between joists. I think I would even add another layer of something...3/4 maybe, just to stiffen it a little more...or add more joists if the subfloor is up anyway.SteveEdited 1/12/2008 4:11 pm by mmoogie
Edited 1/12/2008 4:12 pm by mmoogie
used with hangers 16 oc sound right. As far as the 1 1/8, thats what they used as subfloorig.
Is it sagging now?
Ever wonder why "holistic" doesn't start with "w"?
How long are these 4x6 joists. I thought you had mentioned 4x4s in another thread.,
A floor system is a total system. Any one element alone does not do it for you. Adding another 4x6 halfway between the others would do this in some situations.
is there a way to get a digital photo or three to show what you have now?
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The joists are running the whole length of the house which is about 28', they are split on 4x4 posts every 8' or so. the posts are on little pier blocks, the system would not meet todays codes at all, but i just want to put down a floor.
4x6s at only 8' span might almost work at 24" ochelp me more on the detail of what you have to deal with. is the joist each sagging 3/4" between bearing points or is the 1-1/8" ply sagging that much between joists? need to understand where the sag is to think about the solution clearly.
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the sagging is at most 3/16" between joists
and how much sag in each joist...?
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The joists aren't sagging. Is there any reason for me not to put the flooring down?
You might be better served by something thicker and stiffer than 9/16 bamboo. My local flooring mill still mills everything at 13/16.Have you got room for another 3/4 inches of underlayment?Steve
OK - with no sag in the joists, you are OK technically I suppose.I got pretty confused here, because this started with 3/4" out of level and 4x4 joists.
Now it has 3/16" sags between joists and 4x6 joistsYou could add some 2x4 perpendicular between joists too to straighten it. Just keep in mind that as you #### load ( these other pieces and the flooring) you are adding weight that could make the joists sag.But it sounds like you can see below and access it, so you can always add a beam or more posting later if needed.
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I'm with Piffin on this, you've got to consider this as a total system and that means what is currently in place, which is dealing with the stresses that are currently at play. Add yet more weight, significantly more weight with inch and eighth subflooring plus flooring, and you are asking what is in place, which may be just barely coping with the current situation, to deal with a whole new range of stresses. There are ways to work this out with relatively simple math but a couple of choices are to add additional posts as already mentioned, or even crossbeam the joists underneath, or Torsion Box the entire structure by gluing and screwing 1/2 inch subfloor to the underneath and gluing and screwing your inch and eighth to the top. If you do none of the above don't scrimp on glue or screws for the inch and eighth top. It'll add stiffness which is what you want and can help save your bacon by allowing a serious sag to indicate a problem versus an outright failure.
Are you sure u dont have 4x8? We cant get our insulation depth in a 4x6 to pass code.
When i started framing after school we framed 1 house 48" o.c. with 1 1/8" ply.
That was the last one! bounced so bad, but hey it passed code!
After that it was all 32"o.c.