Would ya’ll reckon that 18″ O/C for 5/4X6″ treated, laid over 7′ 8″ 2X6 joists butted with hangars on 2X12″ beams would be enough. I usually go 16″, but I thought I’d try this. Pretty lightly loaded use. No hot tubs or real heavy stuff should be on it.
Replies
it may spring a little between joists. And be sure of no "spike" knots that go across the whole plank. If ya put yer foot thru youcan't just pull it back out with out leaving the cockroch kicker in the hole. It's like a bear trap.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
I rebuilt a deck where the joists were approximately spaced 24" give or take a couple. Then 5/4 was put on diagonal. It was like walking on a floating marshland. And yeah a couple blanks were broken, but I didn't see any roach kickers underneath.
When I run into one of those and I gotta use it, I usually cut a drop about a foot wider than the knot and screw it on the under side of the piece.
Just curious, but what's your reasoning for this? Reason I ask is because unless your deck is remarkably long you're probably only going to save yourself a joist or two at best.
The structure is 20' by 30'. The beams run the short dimension. 12' by 24' is a covered greenhouse structure supported by 4X6's in the ground that act as the footings for the beams. There's a center section of 6X6's on the same dimension that run down the greenhouse area. It's kind of a strange affair, 'cause I'm trying to fit it between trees. I can go 16" but I gotta do it all over again on ACAD. Just kinda throwing it out there to see what I can get away with. The entire decked area is 564 sq ft.
Anyway, the Saints and the Skins are tied and it's rainin' outside....
Tom,Why are you trying to go 18" centers? Why would you have to draw on Autocad again? To give to the town?Joe Carola
oh hey...Ipe can go 24" at 3/4" thick. Much better than splintery SYP treated junk.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Have you actually done that?I use 3.4" Ipe` at 19.2" but it feels just a bit soft at 24". That calls for 5/4"IPE` in my opinion.Tom, what is so hard about making a change on drawing and why was it drawn at such a strange layout to begin with?CAD should make it a matter of a couple clicks to re-do the drawing layout.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Actually, I don't think I have. I have some drops from a job many years ago, still. I can check. The HO was wantin a save a buck job, and I think it was 3/4 but am not 100% sure. I know it had radiused edges, so maybe it was 5/4.But I have heard ( or read more likely) that 24" was OK with 3/4".I don't do much deck work.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
I have read and been told that it spans 24oc OK withing limits of code requirements.but I replaced some CVG fir decking that had rotted over 24" ( Ithink some of it was 22) OC framing, and I was not all that happy with it. It was certainly better than the original fir and probably safe enough, but it was enough of a sample to convince me to stay at 19.2 with the 3/4"
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Just seeing if I could get away with it. It's no prob to change, but I'd already made up my estimate and gotta change that too. I like to be within 5% on my estimates.
Back to 16" I guess.
Phooey...
What's the wood. Fir might work, Pine is iffy .... and cedar is out of the question!
It's good old #2 ACQ yellar pine. I'm goin' back to 16". Best not to anger the Joist Gods...
You could go 18" OC and it would work fine. You couldn't tell the difference between that and 16" OC. I'd think the joists might bounce before the floor boards do. Why are you doing joist hangers instead of dropped girders? Trying to conserve head space below?
BTW - You said: >> I can go 16" but I gotta do it all over again on ACAD. << No plan sets I use actually have that level of detail - showing each jois. Usually, there is just a double ended arrow with a note that says "FJ 16" OC" or similar.