Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 17, 1999 06:22am | #1

   *
   I use it on exterior walls, mostly for the added stiffness on the 24" OC framing. I also use it on ceilings, as I usually use TJI's 19.2 OC.

   You can either order your windows with the extra eighth-inch, or the trimmers can wrestle it when they come to work.

   Let the electrician (and other trades that will be affected) know as well so he can set the outlet boxes with the correct lip.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 17, 1999 06:22am | #2

   *Ross ever try to screw a 12 ft. sheet of that crap on a ceiling.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 17, 1999 06:37pm | #3

   *If you are looking for ways to spend money, then by all means use 5/8" rock. I used to use it on all lids. And would still consider doing so in top quality work, although I am not convinced that it is much better than 1/2" ceiling board. It will have better sound deadening properties than any 1/2" material if that is a factor. Thermal mass is important if you have solar gain, however the thermal mass difference in a whole house full of 5/8" rock won't amount to didly squat.

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   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 07:43am | #4

   *GabeIt's dead easy when you've got twoi gruntsto hold the sheet, and a "sliding dovetail T brace."Isn't that why G*d invented grunts.I always use 5/8 on 24" o.c.Boardin an battin'-Patrick

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   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 07:55am | #5

   *5/8" is commercial code minimum here in Ohio. What is with the talk on 24 oc for framing? Everything must be 16oc here for framing.Those 5/8 x 12' ar some heavy sons-of-guns. Try moving in a load of em during a surprise rainstorm. Heavily,Pete Draganic

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 25, 1999 10:08am | #6

   *Used 5/8" type X on our Garage ceiling, even though it is a seperate structure. 24" OC framing. Rented a "drywall lift" for a day and it was SLICK!. A little contraption with light steel tubing, four casters a couple of rotating arms a ratcheting crank/wheel that lifts sheets into place. Could even be a one-man job.I even used 5/8" type X (firecode) in a wall that seperates the Master Bedroom from the rest of the house. Along with a solid core door, it'd provide a natural firewall or security wall of sorts.If you really want thermal mass, fill a 55 gallon drum with water. That's serious thermal mass. An extra 1/8" of drywall doesn't add much thermal mass.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 26, 1999 01:04am | #7

   *Regarding fire protection: a theoretical extra 5-10 minutes sounds good, but it ain't the thickness so much as the continuousness (is that a word?) of the drywall. My cousin, a captain in a California fire department, said he doesn't see the fire get out of the first room through the drywall, but rather through the recessed lighting or the 1/8 plywood patch or the large gap left open or the pocket door, etc.I calc the extra drywall (5/8 vs 1/2) in a 2000 square foot house as the equivalent thermal mass as about 45 gallons of water (they have different heat capacities). Really cheap thermal mass: throw your scraps in the empty bays. Really piss off any future remodelers, electricians, etc. But you save many trips to the dumpster. Most commonly done by hangers being paid per sheet hung. The sheets go away faster that way.

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 26, 1999 04:26am | #8

   *I resemble that remark...being Canadian and all.Up here we put the ceiling up first...so it doesn't fall down on the firemen prematurely. My hands are still sore from the last 5/8 drywall job 2 months ago...4000 sq' and no room bigger than 110 sq'. Double the labour at least and once again if it says Westrock on the label don't let them take it off the truck...10-20 lbs more /sheet and lumpy...harder to cut.Oh...where do I go to learn how to post pictures?L

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 26, 1999 07:07am | #9

   *Lawrencei "Oh...where do I go to learn how to post pictures?"There was a whole thread on it awhile back. . .. email Joe "the flamethrower" Fusco for details. . .or read this: Brian Lee "How do you "attach" a diagram or photo to post" 3/5/99 10:21pm