Hello all,
My Neighbor is building a house next door and it seems that they are doing their level best to make the cheapest place possible. 4 ft crawl space with gravel instead of a basement. Electric base board heating in a climate that sees -40 every year. The house is at the roof stage and they have not yet even roughed in the sewage and water, so they have to dig a 8 ft deep trench under the footings. The plumber and the electrician will have to work in a dark 4ft high crawlspace because they have already clad the space. I’m not sure if they will be able to get the hot water tank into the crawl space through the hole that they have left to the crawlspace. The one thing that really makes me wonder is the footing. They have a 6 inch footing with treated 2 x 4 integrated into the footing. The foundation is pressure treated ply wood. I always thought that you had to bolt your foundation to the footing? These guys are just nailing into the integrated 2×4’s. OK here is the Big question(s)-
– does the wood in the cement footing weaken it to point where it is in fact a 4 inch footing (the thinnest point)?
– How high can you build on a 6 inch footing? How high can you build on a 4 inch footing?
Thank you in advance for any comments.
Cheers
M
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Pressure treated wood foundations, while not common, are a "standard" type of foundation. Personally I would not use one, but they are permitted. Usually such foundations rest on no footings at all, so if they do it right they should be fine. Such foundations are normally set on compacted crushed stone.
The footing, among other things, provides support to keep the earth from pushing the bottom of the walls inward. In pressure treated foundations the resistance the walls kicking inward is provided by the basement slab, which is placed up against the walls, keeping them in place.
Since they are using gravel they apparently are using the footing to resist the inward push. It sounds like, with the footing buried in the earth inside and out, that it would sufficiently resist the inward push of the soil at that shallow depth. But, I'm not qualified to say with certainty.
You'd be doing the public and subsequent occupants of the house a favor if you made sure the local building inspector was aware that construction was going on there.
As far as the footing Q, you do not need any footing at all if the soil can bear the load. A common woof foundation detail is to seat the walls on stone rather than a crete footing, but then a slab is used to back brace it. It all comes down to a lot of other variables.
So maybe the foundation is fine, just cheap and uncomfy to work in.
But overall it doesn't sound like this guy has his ducks all swimming in the same pool.
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Not necessarily qualified to speak to 4" / 6" footing + wood foundation. Too many unknown variables especially soil conditions.
But it sounds like the house is being cheaply and perhaps poorly built so given that >>>> house is at the roof stage <<<
perhaps the bigger question you should have is.....
If it collapses some time in the future -- what will it hit?
Jim
I don't foresee the house coming down, but I predict that it will be moving all over the place. If it does come down it would flop on my place hopefully. I could use a nicer house.
I dunno why they are in such a rush. My only guess is that they plan to flip it. The cost of building a 4 ft wall and a 8 ft wall is about the same at that stage. Why not build a basement? Why leave raw gravel in your crawlspace? Why would you purposely undermine your foundation? Why electrical base boards? Why not rough in the plumbing ahead of time? Why not put the hot water tank in BEFORE you button up the envelope? Maybe he is building the place using his credit card...........? I don't know what the inspector could do at this stage of the game.
Cheers
M
The inspector could compel the owner to construct to code. To protect the people who live there and neighbors from hazards like fire or collapse. They can go so far as, if needed, tearing down the building and billing the landowner. It's rare, but does happen with really stubborn owners.
could be several reasons.Add this one to the list of questionsWhy would it matter to you?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Jealousy. Pure and simple. I want to build a house too!
OK, watch and learn. The things that fail on his - don't copy!Love your candorCheck out some of the photo threads in the photo gallery by clicking the blue bar of that heading on your left. Those threads are invaluable for learning how the good ones do it.And now that we know the purity of your motives, LOL, ...You are wise to ask and learn before making mistakes yourself. probably a third of the Qs posed here are after the fact when it is too late or very expensive to fix
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I would not get too up in arms based on the information you've given.
4' crawlspace- that's a lot more generous than some I've worked in.
Baseboard EL heat- maybe not the best choice, but maybe the Owner has a PV solar company and he is going to install a 10kw array.
Site work not complete- Unfortunately, this happens a lot in construction. It's not optimal, but sometimes you have to frame before the trenches are dug or install cabinets before the flooring is finished. If done properly, it will likely be just as good as if they did it before the floor was installed.
As to the footing question- what kind of soil do you have in your area? In some places, the footing would need to be 18"x36", in others, 6" thick is sufficient.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
"I always thought that you had to bolt your foundation to the footing?"
In most cases a foundation is not bolted to a footing. The wooden mudsill is bolted to the concrete foundation. To further that when you pour a concrete footing then a concrete foundation wall there is not much holding each to each other. The footing is poured, form clips hammered into the footing, forms set for foundation walls, concrete poured. That is it unless you add rebar there is not physical bond between the two.
You say the footing is 6"is that deep or wide?
Sounds like they are pouring a 6" deep by X" bond beam or footing, inbedding into this a treated 2x4, then setting the pressure treated foundation walls on this and nailing it into place. I don't see any thing wrong with that, would I do it, No, just because there is nothing like good concrete work.
As said prior some PT foundations are just set on gravel.
What is the site like it might be 200 miles from a concrete plant or limited access that make getting concrete there tough? We need more info, even at that we are not there, if you have a concern call the building dept they will be glad to tell you if he has his ducks in a row.
Wallyo
Has he asked you for any advice?