Can you add some 90min Easysand to interior paint to thicken it up for a mellow texture using a 1/2″ thick roller?
Edited 10/29/2008 12:38 am ET by rez
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Edited 10/29/2008 12:38 am ET by rez
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small batches and be quick....
120 would be better....
bet set to repaint after this "application" dries....
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I'd roll on the easysand by itself, then paint. Too many ifs mixing with it with the paint.
I've experimented with mixing regular joint compound with paint to make it "creamier", to give it some color and to make it rollerable. It works good, but I haven't figured out how to create the same texture where I cut in.
Since I work a lot with setting compounds, you're idea intrigued me. I tried it. I mixed in enough setting compound to make a loose batter-like consistency. It seems to work very good. There is very little color change and texture can be controlled by how thick it is. However, I still have the same concern about cutting-in.
Instead of rollering it, since I was just experimenting, I used a brush. It created an interesting texture (see pic). I like it, but I think it would be hard to predict exactly what kind of texture it ultimately creates. Also, any future repairs will create a texture-matching challenge.
Interestingly, I used 5 minute setting compound, but hours later it still hasn't set. It just got a bit thicker. So I think working quickly may not be too critical as long as you're not too particular about the texture being the same from one side of the room to the other.
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That texture in the pic was applied with a brush?
Thanks
That texture in the pic was applied with a brush?
Yup. I know, it looks like it was rollered, but it really was brushed.
Now I suppose you want me to use a roller to see what kind of texture that creates? Ok, fine (I'm bored and curious... a dangerous combination). I'll post back tomorrow.
Cool.
Could use a penny in the pics as a size comparison.
What kind of paint were you using that would let you bunch up the texture like that without adding a brush mark?Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]
It's just regular Benjamin Moore interior latex. The results may be different on a ceiling where gravity is not working to help level the finish. The area in the picture is only about 3" X 3". It's a very subtle texture and it was actually hard to get a decent picture because the texture would just disappear if the lighting was too strong or direct.
Here's a picture of the results of rollering. This was done with a 1/4" sponge roller, but I think similar results could be achieved with just about any roller. The mixture was a lot thicker by the time I got around to trying a roller. Something like loose concrete. Next time I'll add more setting compound up front.
I was surprised how long it took to do such a small area, but a larger/thicker roller cover should help. I was also surprised how much paint it requires. For an actual ceiling, I would plan on 3 times as much paint to do the job this way. That's certainly not very economical for a large ceiling.
I really like the way it came out and I'll be looking for a chance to do a ceiling this way.
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I see you've been around since '04 so I suppose you've read on old DinotheCarpenter's posts on D-mix that ponyt mentioned earlier?Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]
Yes, I'm familiar with D-mix. In fact, I met Dino at his shop in Edison, NJ (not far from where I live) when he did one of his D-mix demo's.
He's a very enthusiastic guy with a lot of energy. I believe his promotion of D-mix was all about him finding a way to give back and I give him a lot of credit for his efforts.
As for D-mix itself... I don't want to start yet another debate about it (or try and quantify the recipe), but suffice it to say that there are more than one way to skin the animal of your choice. Your idea of setting compound mixed into paint is yet another good way.
Ya, a recipe can be all over the board depending on what one is trying to achieve.
I liked using Dino's recipe and think I got kinda close to what it was suppose to do in principle being a smooth plasterlike appearance and ended up experimenting a whole bunch with various other concoctions changing a bit here and there.
I had some really bad plaster walls I screwed pasterwashers all over and managed to pull off a fair looking final product.
Did buy one of those Miracle trowel things at a SherwinWilliams store and tho' questioning the validity of it at first, after awhile realized it is a tool worth having in the arsenal for some things.
Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]
Mike has big mitts
Edited 10/30/2008 7:58 pm ET by rez
one trick i use with pics is to stick my hand in the pic... it gives scale and it also allows teh auto exposure to figure it's white balance to give truer colors
works even better than penniesMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
when i last made "D-MIX" i used latex paint and tints... and knock it down after rolling on with a 3/4 roller... the yellow iron oxide made a really nice goldish yellow... and i used a light yellow mistint semi gloss paint.... DW mud and Plaster of paris...
i did some sample boards at the same time to play with glazes on top of it... but haven't made a choice on it yet...
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