Just wondering…. Upcoming crown moldinmg job. HO had me tear down
previous crown, partly because it was 3 5/8″ in 9′ cielings and partly because
it was pulling away from the wall/cieling. As I removed I saw the installer didn’t
even attempt to hit studs or top plate. Putting back 4 5/8″ crown nested in
colonial base. Anyhow … how long do most guys let trim acclimate in the
conditioned space, definitely don’t want cracks to develope being thats part of
the reason for the rework.
Replies
Wood (solid or fingerjointed) or mdf?
You are lucky in that it's still winter and the heat's still on. I would get it in there for a week-behind the couch.
Humid summer and no matter how acclimated you'll get one crack in the ceiling caulk almost guaranteed. But with the dry heat, should be good after it's up.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Yup.....I agree with calvin....a week oughtta do it.
Get it primed ASAP after installation.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq
just curious - was it cross nailed or just nailed up straight?
It's all primed fj and describe cross nailing to me.
Nails going in at different directions so as to act as a cotter key/pin.
what doug said.
more than just angling every nail. properly done on crown should have two nails at every nailing point and angled opposite directions. View Image View Image
Been thinking on that crossnailing stuff as I'm well into the job now. I can't
believe that crossnailing into DW is any where near as good as just hitting studs
and joists and if on a wall with paralell joists and I can't hit one, I block behind
it. Not hitting the studs was why the old stuff is coming down. It just moves
too much
"I can't believe that crossnailing into DW is any where near as good as just hitting studs and joists"
It's not
there is a huge difference however between two nails at the same spot cross nailed in opposite directions vs one nail straight into DW.
But you are absolutely correct in yout statement.
I have heard so much debate on this topic, I myself have always been of the same mind as you to add solid blocking. I approached Gary Katz at the JLC show in Seattle 2 years ago on the topic and he quickly dismissed my query with "cross nailing is all you need". My partner who has done a lot more crown jobs than I have also feels cross nailing is fine. Many here on break time subscribe to the same belief. Yet there are also many who are adamant that solid block is absolutely a must.
I have come to accept that perhaps on with anything 4 1/2" or less perhaps one does not need to use solid blocking, but when you start getting into "big" crown, then I'd say it can be warranted.
I'm not 100% set on what I feel is "right" in all cases. If it's a low budget customer, which I do get from to time, they can't really afford to pay for the extra time to add solid blocking. I much prefer the jobs that can pay to use it, and on those jobs I will use it.
next someone is going to say we should be using a continuous bead of PL400 along with solid blocking and screws 12" oc. heck I'll just take my 3" spiker and spike the whole dam thing up 3" oc....it aint never gonna move! lol ( I'm being fectious, before anyone starts commenting)
EDIT: for the record I reread your OP and see that it is a case where there were problems before. I had wondered if it had been crossnailed or straight nailed into the DW. Regardless, in your position ( And I have been before) I personally would add the blocking simply for the piece of mind.
View Image View Image
Edited 3/23/2008 11:37 pm by alrightythen
Edited 3/23/2008 11:41 pm by alrightythen
Edited 3/24/2008 9:43 pm by alrightythen
there is a huge difference however between two nails at the same spot cross nailed in opposite directions vs one nail straight into DW.
I agree, if ya gotta get a nail in there that sounds like the best approach. That
old crown may have been crossnailed in a few places if I remember correctly.
Didn't recognize it because I just wasn't familiar with that method. The guy I
apprenticed with would have walked by and torn it down had he seen me trying
to nail like that lol! Then again we built from foundation to doorknobs (no DW,
HVAC or Plumbing, we did electrical tho) so we would block the ceilings for
crown whenever we had to. Thanks for your time and learnin me somethin'
As someone who has seen crown pull away on many jobs, I usually specify the following, especially with larger crown:
1 - use hardwood, preferably poplar if painted
2 - provide back blocking fastened to the studs/plate
3 - use trim screws at least 3' on center (in addition to nails)
4 - wait as long as possible before caulking/painting
I've personally never had any problems installing crown that way (although I am not a carpenter).
Jeff
Jeff just curious...are you against Ultra light ( MDF) for paint grade? View Image View Image
"Jeff just curious...are you against Ultra light ( MDF) for paint grade?"
No, so long as the MDF surface is smooth and patchable without 'crumbs.'
Jeff
Depends on if its a paying job or not.
I moved in my first house in 97 and brought the family room down to studs.
We moved out in 07, still had not put the trim up,
"honey the drywall has to settle before I install the trim".
I'm printing your post out now.
In BIG BOLD font.
Gonna hang it next to the wifes "honey-do" list
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq