I have done many additions before, but never an add a level. I know the basics, but details like how do i keep the existing roof in place while framing the new addition. And how to keep everything weatherproof (the people will live there while I work. Any other tricks and hints will be well appriciated.
Can’t I go 1 day without spilling my coffee?
Replies
Yeah I have a hint for ya!
Seen a neighbour go through a level addition while living there.
GET THE H.O. TO STAY AWAY!
Too much dust, damage, and getting in the way for a fast build to weather-in.
If at first you don't succeed...try again! After that quit! No sense being a dam fool about it! W.C.Fields
Someone posted a bunch of pics a while back on that.
You might be able to find it in Search.
There's alot of ways to do it and keep it water tight. That is the most important part of an add-a-level.
How many guys do you have?
That means alot.
Are you sistering new joist or or going on top of the old?
If you have a small crew you can precut everthing on the ground first.Window Jacks and sills/Headers/ceiling beams/rafters.
It's a whole other world when framong an add-a-level.
I've done add-a-levels befor where you get an unexpected forcast of rain where if you can't get the walls up and ceiling beams on so there's no bellys in the tarp and get the tarp to drape over the existing siding you don't raise the walls at all.
What we do is frame from the inside walls and out. Frame all the inside walls first and lay them down on the deck and keep lapping them on top of eachother and the last walls will be your outside walls and that gives you plenty of picth for your tarp.
The next day you start lifting your outside walls first and then your inside walls and lapping them onto eachother.
I don't care what anybody says or what the forcast says, I tarp every night. That is the most important part. I've built tempory rafters just to shed water without getting big bellys because those big bellys can hold alot of water that can pop the tarp.
Joe Carola
there's been a few times we've stacked two more plates on the bearing walls for floor joists, the 3" lets the joist clear any cieling light boxes and wiring.