I just thought about this today and its kind of a soundboard question, but a comment first…
I went to a job that a contractor is remodeling the kitchen, and the homeowner called and asked if I would do the paint. I painted walls and ceilings and the carpenter was coming back to install trim and a new cabinet island.
Homeowner called and asked if I could fit her in to paint some of the parts before install. I popped over yesterday to see what I needed for supply. The carpenter ordered 2 cabinets that the carcasses are made of knotty pine, and the face and doors are clear. Wainscot is going to be used on the back open side because it is an island. While I was there the HO told me the carpenter was going to add a layer on the back before the wainscot because he was making concrete countertops for the whole kitchen.
I didnt say a word, I hope the weight of my paint doesnt crush the cabinets. I also wonder about the floor the house is about 120 years old, and my guess is they didnt work in the basement.
Im all for the concrete, but I think Id build a bit heavier. lol
Oh and the Carpenters wife told the HO that I should paint the cabinets in floor paint because she wants to put pots and pans in them. Even if you used epoxy its not going to stop the pine from chipping and getting banged up inside… if they are the rough type.
Am I dead on, or just a snob?
As for the question…. The HO wants linen white on the cabs… due to the knotty pine I told her I would prime in shellac, and it got me thinking. Always before I have applied shellac with a china brush…. Do you think a synthetic would be better suited for shellac? The solvent wont damage the bristles and they may remain more snappy. I guess I always grabbed the hog bristle because shellac was one of those clear yellowie stainers.
-zen
Edited 6/15/2005 8:49 am ET by zendo
Replies
Got so excited I buried my own question.
oh, Hi Luka
-zen
and its still not popping....
Edited 6/15/2005 8:47 am ET by zendo
The best bristles for shellac is badger - the oval mops. But that is overkill for shellac as a primer I suspect. Natural with a good split would be the second choice.
But since you are painting over it, maybe the white pigmented shellac from Zinsser would be a good choice? And can you spray? That would be easier, if you have a spray booth and can take the cabinets and do them there.
Brian,
I tried the synthetic today before any answers came in. I had a soft synthetic. It worked well except I think the benefit of the natural is that it would load and hold more material, seemed like I spent a lot of time reloading the brush.
You are right about the white, I had a few older cans of shellac that I figured I would use up.
-zen
Paint the cabs with milk paint. Once it's dry, it never will come off. Probably take two coats, which will be dead flat sheen, so probably a clear coat on top if you want semigloss or gloss.
Mike Dunbar has done several articles on milk paint for FWW.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Edited 6/15/2005 2:23 pm ET by Ed Hilton
Ed,
My guess is that tanin will come through it? ...I could still shellac.
Im going to start using milk paint because it is safer, but I dont have experience with it, nor really know its properties.
-zen
Do a search at Knots ... milk paint is a popular furniture finish. A few comments:
You buy it as a powder and mix with water. It has a fairly short shelf life once mixed.
It only sticks to bare wood.
Once dry, it cannot be stripped off with a chemical stripper.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Ed's idea of milkpaint sounds good--you could paint on two or three different colors and if the HO chips the paint, it will look antiqued, as the undercoats begin to show through. (Just an idea.)