I’d like some opinions on my project. As you can see, Ive re-sided the first story of the house w/ white cedar shingles. I do love the look, but it is time consuming for an amateur such as myself. I was considering white cedar clapboards/bevel siding for the shed dormers but I/m not sure if that would be aesthetically pleasing or architecturally correct. I’m pretty happy w/ the job I’ve done so far and I don’t want to sacrifice a nice end result for the sake of saving some installation time. I’m also having a tough time visualizing running the shingles where the shed dormer meets the rake (?) on the gable roof. If anybody has any opinions or advice on either I’d be grateful. Thanks, Craw
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it's time consuming because you're doing a great job.. and it's not something you do all the time...
sometimes a traditional house might have painted clapboarrds on the front elevation and white cedars on the other three sides..
but you will not see WC ont eh front and claps on teh dormer above.. in my opinion, i'd continue the nice job you're doing and repeat it on the dormer
a couple of tips... the cheeks of your dormers will have step flashing up the sides.. use either brown aluminum step flash or black alum step flash... lay a piece of 3/4 board on top of the flashing and don't let any of the butts get closer to the roof shingles that that.. it will keep the butts air dried and they won't wick water off the roof..
you have to install the step flash before you do your sidewall shingle..
at the base of the dormer bend a custom flash our of the same brown or black alum with a hem and a small crimping angle so it will keep pressure on the asphalt shingles.. we usually make this break flash out of 8" coil stock witha 3/4 hem and about 4 on the roof and 3" up the wall..
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
at the base of the dormer bend a custom flash our of the same brown or black alum with a hem and a small crimping angle so it will keep pressure on the asphalt shingles..
Mike , I think he is removin the shingles no? But the flashing is still correct..
as an aside..would a "cap" shingle be over the flashing?
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
sphere .. i think i know what you mean by a " cap " shingle.. that's where you use an asphalt shigle to hide the flashing , right ?
i've done that .. but i was never happy with it..
another method is using a "break board" on top of the last course of roof shigles .. right under the sidewall break.. usually this gets a lead sheet lap which is tacked down with galv. tacks ( carpet tacks )
one of the reasons we bought an aluminum break is so we can bend our own flashings..
here's two pics .. one shows a couple of dormers.. at the base you can see the black "break flash " covering the last course of roof shingles..
the other is the whole gable end with a pent roof across and a break flash the whole way
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Neat stuff, Mike.
In the first picture, at the intersecton of the upper roof and the steep side roof, what is the trim detail? It almost looks like the bottom trim is sitting on top of the trim for the upper roof....but the second shot looks more like the two are connected ...I'm sure it's some weird digital artifact!
Love the sweeping roof line over the entry. Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
jake.. i think it's an inconsistency in our trim detail... all of those rakes had three elements.. the rake board... a small shadow board (mostly hidden by the aluminum drip edge ).... and the aluminum drip edge..
in the first pic .. the drip edge follows the shadow board up onto the rake board..
on the gable end it doesn't.. two different guys did it...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ahhhhh, I see. Also, I think the lighting made the difference more obvious. looking at both pictures again I can now see it on both...an interesting detail to resolve!
was that black aluminum flashing? looks good.
What do you think of using copper in situations like that?Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
copper is fine, costs a lot more.. harder to slit, harder to keep from kinking..
soft rolled copper has no memory, so you can't make spring compression flashings out of it like we do for our break flashings..
generally... we use copper for cedar.. usually spec painted alum . coil stock , and offer the copper as an upgrade ....
with the asphalt shingles i generally like the complimentary colors of the coil stock rather than the copper..
if the copper is just bent .. we do it.. but if it needs soldering or fabrication, we sub it out to barryMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I gotcha..thats a sweet thing. I never had much luch luck with the cap shingles, and they looked like an after thought. The break board sounds neat and tidy. I have never seen black flashing in all my travels..just now finally got lead for my place..(seems no one here heard of it 'cept roof boots and shower pans). I think exposed flashing and I see open valley metal in my mind..another peculiar thing in the south is almost all valleys are woven shingles, and I grew up with snappin a line and cuttin back the shingles to make a tapered valley.
In you salty area does the alum. hold up well? I know lead would..thanks for the info.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
duane.. the painted coil stock is a heavier gauge than the bright aluminum you buy in rolls or in step-flash packs..
i have to believe you can get painted aluminum coil stock where you are.. they would sell it by the pallet loads wherever they sell vinyl siding..a box would be 24" wide x 50' long.. we have a slitter so we can slit it into any width we need
the painted stands up very well to our salt air.. it's painted on both sidesMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks for taking the time to reply,Mike. I've seen alot of your work here on Breaktime and its a real morale booster to have my work complimented by crafstmen such as yourself and many others here. So shingles it is. Thanks again.
Mikes right...keep doing what you're doing! Looks great! What are your shigles? Prestained? OR finished on site? with....?
Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Thanks to you as well for the compliments. The shingles are Maibec pre-stained with Cabots bleaching oil. They have 3 grades and these are the middle grade shingle ...I don't remember what theycall them. For me its well worth the extra expense of having them pre stained. I dont know if you can see the porch addition all the way to the right of my picture but those are some locally purchasedw/c that I hand dipped in linseed oil, bad move. In addition to selling me on the pre-stained the linseed oil really seems to promote mildew. I havent seen any mildew on the shingles or soffit that was treated w/ bleaching oil.