Replies

1. FHB Editor
   JFink | Jan 10, 2007 12:37am | #1

   You're likely going to have to provide more information to get the kinds of answers you're looking for.

   Firstly, why are you looking for a new method?

   Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

   Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

1. 
   mackllm | Jan 10, 2007 12:49am | #2

   Given the contrainst of the size of the deck versus the size of the wall I do not see how I can build and then stand up the wall (plus limited resources to stand up the wall). 

   I was thinking of framing the load bearing walls, put up the rafters and rafter ties and then frame, stick by stick the gable wall.  Only three walls here as this is an addition. 

1. 
   jrnbj | Jan 10, 2007 12:54am | #3

   Don't see why not......

2. 
   Stilletto | Jan 10, 2007 12:56am | #4

   Setup a couple of ladders and then walk planks in between on the outside of the addition.  2x12's work best for the wider working platform. 

   After the wall is nailed together raise it into place. 

    

3. 
   mikeroop | Jan 12, 2007 03:42am | #10

   done it the way you mentioned in your 2nd post many times when the wall was taller

   than my deck was long.

    

4. 
   Mark | Jan 12, 2007 05:11am | #11

   That's how I'd do it." If I were a carpenter"

2. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Jan 10, 2007 04:13am | #5

   Yes Allen.

   Typically, my first solution is to look to the line of window that make up the window headers. That normally will become my break in the wall and if necessary, I run the header continuous, wall to wall.

   That gives me the base for the finished gable that I set later.

   Done it that way on every gable, studio, cathedral, gambrel, whatever, any size or configuration. It works. Occssionally, we run into one that must be assembled as one piece. That's rare.

   I'm betting that you don't have room to frame your entire wall...it'll hit the existing house. Right?

   blue

   "...if you just do what you think is best testing those limits... it's pretty easy to find exactly where the line is...."

   From the best of TauntonU.

1. 
   mackllm | Jan 10, 2007 06:50pm | #7

   Correct the width of the deck is too small for the entire gable wall to lay on.  My understanding is that in order to have a catherdral ceiling I need to balloon frame the gable wall, otherwise I have a hinge point.

1. 
   Muttly | Jan 11, 2007 10:38pm | #8

   Any wind load?

1. 
   mackllm | Jan 11, 2007 11:06pm | #9

   Yes.  The amount I am unsure of.

2. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Jan 12, 2007 09:04pm | #12

   A hinge point in itself is not reason to eliminate that as an option. If you remember, I mentioned that I'd run a continuous headers ate the window line. Quite often, I"ve used this technique to stablize a wall that I know would be more flexible if I used conventional thinking like balloon framing.

   Every situation is different. My experience usually guides me.

   blue"...if you just do what you think is best testing those limits... it's pretty easy to find exactly where the line is...."

   From the best of TauntonU.

3. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 10, 2007 05:23am | #6

   We've framed a gable end that was simply too much for the two of us and there was no way to winch the wall up (big nasty 400 amp service wire in the way).  We simply built it in two sections.

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

4. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 13, 2007 05:49am | #13

   I hate to even put this out there since it might sound like a suggestion, which it isn't, but there is a work around for situation where the wall is standing and hasn't been ballon framed, although it obviously should have been (or something similar) so as to prevent a hinge effect.  Sheathing the interior of the wall will eliminate the hinge, as will long simpson straps at each stud.

   If you were building in windy Wyoming it would be a mistake to not ballon frame if you're facing into the wind. 

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Jan 13, 2007 05:54am | #14

   If you were building in windy Wyoming it would be a mistake to not ballon frame if you're facing into the wind. 

   I'm facing windy Lake Huron. I hinged. The house is solid like a rock. To achieve stability, I braced across the open cathedral cieiline with a bridge.

   I'm not opposed to ballooning as I've ballooned about 100o walls personally myself.

   blue"...if you just do what you think is best testing those limits... it's pretty easy to find exactly where the line is...."

   From the best of TauntonU.

1. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 14, 2007 03:57am | #15

   Heck, with all the windows in todays gable end walls it seems funny to call them anything in particular.  :-)

   As long as it makes sense there are probably half dozen ways to get a good solid wall.

   Once upon a time we added a decrative 3/4-log truss inside along a hinge (matching an exterior decrative truss).  Lots of wood in those logs.

   The one time we did purposefuly frame in a hinge it was for a big game hunter trophy room.  The entire works had 3/4 cdx under the sheetrock to make hanging cape buffalo and all sorts of africanish critters on the walls.  Now those were stiff walls. 

   Good building 

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

5. 
   Omah | Jan 14, 2007 07:28am | #16

   Platform frame first on the gable end, Then you only have to stick frame up from the top plate to your last beam , if its an open beamed cat. ceiling. it'll help keep your walls from spreading if you use a double top plate

1. 
   mackllm | Jan 15, 2007 04:10am | #17

   The room will be cathedral with raised rafter ties. My understanding is that I need to balloon frame the gable wall. Only one gable because the other side is against the house. I would much rather platform frame. Am I wrong about the balloon framing?

1. 
   Omah | Jan 15, 2007 07:25am | #18

   Never thought about it that much. Always have done platform framing. I believe platform framing as superior to ballon framing, It came latter in the evolutionary process, has better fire retardation properties, is easier to construct, adds superior strength to your corners, Bias walls are a little different though. Sometimes you just have to ballon those. There are exceptions, like a glass wall or archetectural feature that may make it more expediant to ballon, post and beam for example, But at the end of the day I try and do whats fastest easiest and cheapest. As long as it stays within code of course. It is acceptable.