So, what are you using for anchor bolts, nowadays?
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Here's a deck job I'm on now where I'm cantilevering out over a stemwall because the deck is so close to grade (not using beams at all). What I did was get double dipped 1/2" x 12" hex bolts, and coated em with 2 coats of epoxy paint.
Not code for walls though I bet.
Gene,
Use borate plates instead and don't worry about bolts or nails being eaten.
KK
How do I specify that to my lumberyard?
Just ask for borate.
Here's a link to the brand we get.
http://www.osmose.com/wood/usa/preserved/advanceguard/product_description/default.aspKK
We started using borate treated wood a few houses ago, but the inspectors still aren't familiar with it. I'm getting sick of showing every inspector the info on this product.
We were using standard anchor bolts with a plastic sleeve that goes over anchor bolt and through 2X. Sleeve would keep bolt, washer, and nut from contacting ACQ.
We just switched to borate.
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
http://www.lazarobuilders.com
Im sure you're all familiar with the code, 1/2" anchor bolt, 6 feet on center. The code also states anchor bolts 1/2" or larger do not need to be hot-dipped or stainless when used with the new lumber.
Lets also be realistic about ACQ lumber used for sill plates and the fasteners used to hold them down. Corrosion is not going to occur without moisture. The likelyhood of moisture wicking into the sill through the concrete is slim, especially if you're using a sill gasket. So basically that leaves the moisture left in the lumber. Shortly after the building is framed and closed up that treated sill is going to be pretty much dry. So I dont see the big deal for anchor bolts.
Everyone is scared silly with ACQ and its effects eating away at zinc fasteners. Now if your building a deck where moisture will always be a concern, then sure use a stainless, or dipped fastener. But a fastener that is sealed up dry in a wall, you're wasting time and money using specialty bolts. Dont take my word for it, grab a cut off of ACQ on the next job, run a couple standard screws and let it sit inside on your concrete shop floor. See what happens. My guess is that you'll be pleasantly surprised. Moisture = Corrosion, no moisture no corrosion.
IMHO...........
The assumtion is that... "A framed house system stays dry after construction is completed."
I crawl too many crawlspaces that are wet/damp, see too many leaking basements, and call out slabs set at ground level to know that such an assumption is often in error.
Especially in the mixed humid climate area that I live in!
And the quoted minimum industry criteria for uncoated 1/2 anchors leaves me wondering what condition the bolts will be in 10 years.....and I opt to be on the safe side and use hot dip or S/S (ouch...$$$$).
I like smiling repeat costomers!
...............Iron Helix
I've noticed local Home Depots are now selling galvanized anchor bolts. Two suppliers I know of who sell block, mortar, and all the other stuff for building foundations do not sell galvanized bolts. HD a trend setter? I doubt it - they still don't have all the HD nails I used to need when I build decks. What a joke. For reasons stated above, I don't think gal anchor bolts are ncessary.
Here's something that will shock some people a bit... Here in NC, we didn't use anchor bolts on anything except garage walls up until the IRC was adopted in 2002. That was excluding high wind areas. When I say garage wall, I mean a wall on top of a wall. A stepped foundation would be another example. Mud sills were nailed to the block/brick. Anyway, the prevailing attitude is we didn't use anchor bolts for the previous century, so why do we need em now? Still, they are now always put in. I guess that is progress... but it also adds to the expense of people's home. Matt