I’ve got a lot of help from the archives on leveling ceilings. I’ve got the tools ready, but…. I expect my bathroom ceiling is going to be out of level by up to 2-1/2″ at the tub end (the whole house is out of level). I’ll be using metal hat furring channel, but shimming out a ceiling joist by 2-1/2″ seems to be verging on the structural (as in, all I’ll be able to screw into is the shims).
I’m curious what people do for this amount of shimming? Right now I’m thinking some 2x and plywood strips glued and screwed to the joists, with support from a 1×3 ledger board on one side (furring out the wall anyway) and a plumbing wall on the other side. That amount of shimming material held up only with glue and screws would make me nervous. This means taking down the bit of plumbing wall I’ve put up so far, but I do want to do this right.
As for why level the ceiling: the floor is level (now) and I’ll have tiles going from a (level) tub up to a tiled ceiling. Porcelain tiles, another reason to make sure it’s supported right….
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string line it ( or lazer) and sister beside the existing. Saves a lot of fussing.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt
For a ceiling that far out-of-level I'd suggest sistering metal studs to the joists. The 3 5/8-in. size should be wide enough, but you could also use 6-in. studs. Fasten them with 1 1/8-in. drywall screws (type w) spaced about 6 inches apart. Metal studs are much lighter that wood, and perfectly straight so it's easy work.
Thanks both for the suggestion. Believe it or not, I've already sistered 2x6s level with the ceiling joists (doh!) because of hairline cracks appearing in them (and a sagging top plate that I've repaired). Glued and screwed with nails and carriage bolts which may get in the way of sistering steel studs, I'll have to run the laser etc. If I sister down again, I'll have to keep fasteners 3" back from the end of the furring channels. Are 25ga studs enough or should I go up to 20ga? It's a small span, 5', holding DW and insulation.I'll also have to see if there's room for the shower light in the joist bay, it was getting tight in there....Can anyone recommend a chop saw blade for cutting steel studs? I'll have uses for it further down the line....
25 ga. studs are fine for supporting a drywall ceiling. I can't recommend any saw blades because I still cut metal studs with tin snips.
Thanks again. Just getting lazy with the power tools...
I recently leveled out a series of rooms with sistered metal studs. I think once you get used to the snips you will like it much more then anything "power"Frank