Another repeated framing question
If you are framing a “california roof” the valley rafters and the ridge sit on the main roof’s sheathing, and two lines are generally snapped from the california’s ridge down to the eaves, defining the valley. I’ve seen framers generally lay boards on the flat directly on the main roofs sheathing so the valleys have something to sit on. I’ve also seen an article where framers lay 2x material on the flat but they bevel the edge of the 2x so the valley rafters stay in plane down to the main roof’s sheathing. How do you figure out how to make that bevel? I know this was a recent post, by somebody else but no one really answered it in a simple way. Please describe how to do it, step by step, like you are showing someone how to do it for the very first time, because you are! Thanks all
Craig
Replies
Most framers don't make unnecessary cuts, this is one of them. Lay the board flat and pull it down to the point where it is in plane.
Craig, there have only been a very few instances that I could remember where I ripped that bevel. Probably the only reason I did it was to see if it was useful in any way. It probably wasn't.
Anyways, if you want a way of doing it without getting into a lot of math, I can explain it.
First, set your ridge. Then snap those lines that you already talked about. Then, lay a 2x on the line and snug it up to the ridge fitting it like you would a rafter, except that it will be laying on the flat. Then, scribe the bevel on the edge of the valley board. Then rip the board, following that bevel.
Have fun...
blue
Set the ridge board, chalk the valleys and layout rafters. Hold a rafter on top of the ridge on one end and just to the point it's hitting the valley on the other. Mark the valley end of the rafter using an offcut/scrap the same thickness as the rafter (verticle thickness, not actual) and lay it alongside the rafter and scribe the cut. The bevel angle on your saw is the pitch of the roof and you just cut the scribed line. Use that offcut to mark the rest of your rafters
I think you're describing how to mark the heel cut at the valley end of the rafters - the OP wanted to know how to figure the roof angle at the edge of the sleepers.
I agree with the poster who said that there's no logical reason for doing it that way. I mean if your roof sheathing can't span a coupla inches, you got more serious problems. And there's no reason to try to make it look pretty - its a Calfornia valley, for crying out loud. "he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
And there's no reason to try to make it look pretty - its a Calfornia valley, for crying out loud. This was the same thinking the clown at the local diner had the other day---cept it was a California burger---Seriously think the guy built if from across the kitchen---Hey Sam--Watch this, I can put cheese on it from over here---Wowhoo---bullseye, Almost.Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
...yup, think I saw his brother on a framing crew."he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
It is not need because when you nail into the sheathing to the 2x boards you will be angling the nail in at the corner of the 2x. That last 1 1/2" of sheathing just runs long. To benifit from the extra work of beveling you would need to nail the sheathing to the 2x perpendicular to the board, meaning your hammer/ nail gun would need to be snug to the existing roof when nailing. PITA.
If you insist on doing it, eye-ball it. It is not a dovetailed drawer. As long as you are close, you will e happy with the result. Soon you will get better at eye-balling the angle. Whatever you bevel it to will be better than the 90 you are starting with
Frankie
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from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
Craig ,
I was the one who posted the question about the bevel cut of a sleeper. But it was in regards to the mathamatics of claculating the angle of the bevel.
As the others have posted it's not nessecary to make that cut. In twenty years of framing I've never made that cut because it hasn't been needed. Planning the square edge of the sleeper into the valley line is all you need.
Howie
I tried to make that cut once a loong time ago.
it turned out to be more than 45° anyway, so I never tried angqain. I figured out what the others have said, theree is nothing to gain from it.
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