Using small sheets of glossy prefinished white, using adhesive only. stood the sheets on long edge for 2 days to get acclimated to room temp as per instructions. the top[ and bottom edges still want to come unglued and curl out about 15 minutes after sheets are applied to walls. Is it better to lay sheets flat to get acclimated to room temp or leave them standing on edge.
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Why cant you use nails or staples along the top & bottom edges, then cover with base & chair rail trim?
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What kind of glue?
Whenever I do wainscot I glue the backs with either liquid nails or PL adhesive. Also just recently tried the loctite adhesive, that's good too. I apply glue, place on wall, then lift it back again (I dunno why; someone told me that once), back on wall check plumb, finish nail bottoms top and tongue. If it is 1/4" stuff like the MDF pieces or pine (neither of which I use anymore) I use 1" crown staples. Cover bottom w/baseboard (Or if placed on top of baseboard a nice basecap) and the top w/1x4, cove and a bullnose on top of that. Or just use a wainscot cap (see below).I cannot recommend more whole-heartedly WindsorOne for interior beadboard wainscot, or for many other kind of moldings also. I found the price for the beadboard wainscot 5/8 x 4" size very comparable to what I was using which was either MDF sheets or the 1/4" pieces , which by the way show every bulge if the wall is not plumb. Check them out here:http://www.windsorone.com/catalog/default.asp?section=Builder&qsCatId=1&qsCatName=WindsorOne&qsSubCatID=21#It is stable because of the tight fingerjointing, and I think there's like 3 coats of baked on primer on it. It just provides a nice solid surface to screw say a toilet paper holder into. W1 also has some great wainscot caps which are like $2/ft.:http://www.windsorone.com/moldings/wainscot/default.aspCall and talk w/Kurt Williams of W1 out in Windsor CA. @ 888-229-7900 x15, tell him Alan Sullivan sent you. I kept that poor guy on the phone for like 30 minutes a few weeks ago asking him questions (he even sent me a cool "Got Wood" T-shirt and skull cap). Just shows you what a great company it is and how he is willing to answer any questions you may have.Still for outside use however I only have eyes for Azek, but from now on for interior use it is w1 all the way.Hope this helps.AS
I've also had good success with PL and Loctite. I was wondering what kind of glue the OP had used. He/She should read your post, it's good information.
With paneling, there are two good reasons for popping it loose and resticking it when using construction adhesive.First, you get to see if you have good coverage and contact so you can add a bit more if need be in low spots.More important though - you introduce oxygen and airborne moisture to the mix, which help it kick faster, whether moisture cured PL Poly or O2 cured other adhesives
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Thanks Piffin,Many thanks for the info. now if someone asks why I do that I can tell 'em instead of saying "I have no idea".This forum is like college, except I have learned so much more here that I can actually use in life.Cheers for that,AS
Used the new loctite. It now seems to work better if I lay the sheets down flat for a day before installation.
It is always best to lay sheets flat for that very reason. Same goes for doors. Nothing more frustrating than installing a warped door.
As far as your wainscottng goes, when ever glueing, always use brads to hold the panel in place while the adhesive sets. Be sure to fire them in at an angle. This will keep them from pulling out of the drywall.
Dave