Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Dec 04, 2002 02:14am | #1

   make sure you follow all of the mfr's recommendations, especially for side and end gapping

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   GregWerner | Dec 04, 2002 02:16am | #2

   Thanks Mike. I'll be sure to do that.Greg

2. 
   alias | Dec 04, 2002 03:48am | #3

   trapeaze screws work best you see them splashed all over F.H.B. nails dimple as do regular screws there ia a blind screw system thats available also there a couple of system one looks like an angle iron attaches to the joist and the other is like a bisquit insert with a screw....... bear

1. 
   GregWerner | Dec 04, 2002 06:01am | #12

   Thanks for the reply. I've used the angle hidden fasteners but only when I absolutly have to. I've seen the bisquit type but never used them. Look like it would take forever to get done. thanksGreg

1. 
   alias | Dec 04, 2002 06:28am | #13

   samehere g- the bisquit took the labor off the screen, the trapeze is a good screw i'm wonderin' how there do with mdf/primed trim....well anyhow staywell/ and warm ...... bear

   Edited 12/3/2002 10:29:55 PM ET by the bear

3. 
   ProDek | Dec 04, 2002 04:12am | #4

   Greg- Your Trex supplier should give you several of the new yellow Trex spacers for free. Trex says you can span 16" o.c. but I have been framing my Trex decks at 12" o.c. because you can notice some flex at 16".The 2 1/2" FasTap poly is a great fastener. It pre-drills and countersinks itself flush with a little help from a good impact driver.

   Your screw pattern should look like this-  : . ' . ' . ' . ' . :

   The ends should be routed  with a 3/8 round bit held sideways before the run is screwed down.

   Have fun !!!!

   Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   

1. 
   jonblakemore | Dec 04, 2002 04:20am | #6

   Pro-Dek,

   I've noticed that you always use an impact driver for your trex decks.  Have you ever tried a deck screw gun (I'm guessing you have) and why don't you use these instead?  My experience is that they are much faster if you can work well with the tool.

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   ProDek | Dec 04, 2002 05:02am | #7

   Jon-The reason for the impact drive is not the speed as much as the ease of installing a screw into the knot of a joist. Yes, a variable speed drill will work but I just like the steady speed, balance, and assurance that I won't break the head off of a screw, that the impact drivers give over variable speed drills.

   You don't have to remove too many stripped screws to sell yourself on an impact driver. Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

1. 
   jonblakemore | Dec 04, 2002 05:13am | #8

   Do you screw one board at a time?  I like using a Bo-Wrench to lay about one in ten boards (Trex is flexible enough) with the other spaced and tacked, then snap a line and screw away the field pieces.  Seems much faster.  A screw gun makes it like a production line- just follow the chalk.

   Interested to hear your take on things.Jon Blakemore

1. 
   ProDek | Dec 04, 2002 05:41am | #11

   Jon- ole buddy, I know not of what you speak, bo-wrench, speed?

   Yes we do lay one board at a time, mark it, cut it, route both ends, fasten one end and work our way down the run.

   You'd probably have your deck done before I unloaded all my tools.

   Take time to smell the roses..........

   Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

2. 
   jonblakemore | Dec 04, 2002 06:38pm | #17

   I may be done more quickly, but the decks that you are doing are a whole lot more enjoyable than the ones I've had to opportunity to tackle lately. 

   I will have to try those FasTap screws next Trex job I get.  They seem pricey, but the self coutersinking could be a great feature.

   Jon Blakemore

3. 
   ProDek | Dec 04, 2002 06:49pm | #18

   Those FasTap screws are hot dipped galvanized hardened steel, I like them because you will break a bit before you strip a head. I used to pre-drill before I found them out, they cost $189. for a box of 2500 which is enough to do most decks.Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

2. 
   GregWerner | Dec 04, 2002 05:36am | #9

   Bob, Thanks for all the help. I saw that Trex suggests 16o.c. but I was worried about that. I'll frame 12o.c.  I never saw a screw pattern like that but I'll give it a try. I caught your post about using an impact. I usually use my Quik-drive. Maybe I'll use my impact. Haven't had it out of the case lately.Thanks.

   P.S.

    I love your cartoon hammer!Greg

4. 
   Bloodad | Dec 04, 2002 04:16am | #5

   Hey Greg,......joist spaceing--decking perpendicular to framing-16"--decking diagonal-12".....be sure the numbers on the ends are turned up/that is so they read normal......cannot notch the posts.....Hard as rock below 40 degrees.  Good luck.  Charge extra Labor.  You'll see why once you do one.  It's not your normal decking in more ways than one.

   InTheCleftOfHisHand                                                                                                ford

1. 
   GregWerner | Dec 04, 2002 05:38am | #10

   Ford, thanks for the heads-up on the labor cost, I would've never thought it'd be more than p.t.  It'll probly be sometime in Jan. when I do this. Any more cold weather advice?  Thanks.Greg

5. 
   JDRHI | Dec 04, 2002 07:39am | #14

   Just completed my first Trex deck. I attempted the impact driver (Still not sold on that toy) and switched to decking gun before my third 18' deck board. I was very happy with the decking itself, but the posts, balusters and 2x material left me a bit leary. Attaching the decking to PT framing was fine definetly use the Trapease screws), but I wasnt happy with the Trex to Trex connection of the rails.

   Thats all I can offer....as I said, it was my first.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

6. 
   BKCBUILDER | Dec 04, 2002 03:00pm | #15

   Once you get beyond the fact that it has a reoccuring mold, that shows up like splotches everywhere. It can be scrubbed off with bleach, but comes back in a month or so. Seems to grow faster on parts exposed to the sun more than the shade. Oh yeah....trex will not acknowledge a problem. Other than that it's great.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Dec 04, 2002 03:21pm | #16

   keith... show us some pics of the "reoccurring mold".... i'd like to know what to look for, we use a lot of TrexMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   WMossor | Dec 04, 2002 11:33pm | #19

   You left out the fact that the shaded portions of the deck will not fade at the same rate as the parts exposed to the direct sunlight (this includes under chairs, tables, ect...). Or the fact that it cannot be used for anything structural at all.  Or the fact that after a couple of years in the sun on 16" centers will make your deck look like a lake on a windy day.  Oh yeah, and it smells like crayons.

   Trex, ick..(can you tell I don't think much of this stuff?)

   bill

1. 
   jonblakemore | Dec 04, 2002 11:51pm | #20

   I like trex.

   Frame at 12" O.C.

   Your decking shouldn't be structural anyways.

   Don't inhale.

   There, 75% problems solved.

   Jon Blakemore