Anyone ever refinish a fiberglass tub???
Mooney
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Have ya ?
I have two smoked and yellow .
One bubbled and needs a redo the other I sanded and buffed , it wasnt good .
Unless I learn somthing I wont attempt it again.
Tim
Replies
My tub repair guys "re-gelcoat" FG tubs with surface problems. Not sure exactly what that means...
I called a tub guy but wished I hadnt tried the one I did
as a teen i hung out a friends boat factory...
as you know in molded fiberglass work it's paint first then the boat... vs build the boat then paint it... it's all done in the mold... outside first... same with shower stalls
the "paint" is gelcoat... and yes you can gel coat on top of gel coat...
bubbles or "blisters" is the gelcoat unbonding from the fiberglass matt that was laid up ontop of it in the mold... lots of reasons this happens but it's usually a moisture issue during the manufacture.... a spray gun or hopper gun all air driven get water in the air supply... it gets blown into the mold... and... you get the gelcoat having nothing to bond to...
the fix is to sand/chip away all loose gelcoat (like you would a bad place in a concrete slab) fill voids with auto body filler... sand & respray a top coat of new gelcoat... if it's repairs on new stuff it will blend pretty well... if it's old stuff you usually have to respray the whole unit... if you have to respray the whole thing... many times a 2 part marine paint is a better choice... but the fumes and over spray will kill you... even a good cartridge mask is little protection for many of these paints... and at $200+ a gallon... screw ups are pricey
p
wow
Id never heard of marine two part paint . Sounds like epoxy. I was a union spray painter in Little Rock where I sprayed coatings like that inside holding tanks . We had to have fresh air masks. Same with pools although it was different stuff . Im sure this is too.
Ive never sprayed gelcoat .
The tub bubbled when it got hot in the fire.
Tim
Edited 4/14/2007 9:07 am by Mooney
The marine paint is often DuPont Imron or Centauri. Polyurethane paints are two-part and a lot of boats are re-painted this way. The fiberglas may be structurally weaker in some places so I would compare the price to replace vs re-paint, because Imron is expensive. Add the "first time is a learning experience" part and all of the other stuff needed for this (good mask, thinners, filler, time and any other materials) and it may not be cost-effective.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Hey
be careful with "marine paints". Most if not all marine "bottom" paints have some pretty ugly growth inhibitors in them to prevent baranacle growth. not something you would want in a tub.
I remember a strange little "testing and clean-up" in some bush villiages in Alaska. Seems people used their leftover bottom paint (darn expensive, ain't gonna throw it away, might as well use it) in their homes and had some problems.
I suspect this is not the type of paint you were refering to, but just to be safe....
Hey
i think the only way you'll be happy is to ditch the tub
i think... just my opinion... go buy a $100 steel tub... and some $1 sf tile... you'll have a better product... wish i'd never seen fiberglass tubs
p
Many years ago, tried to find a 6 ft long tub that was not a huge jacuzzi, could not find.
Took an oval 5 ft tub and sawed it in half and added in 2 feet. Used polyesther resin.
Finish came out ok using body work techniques (random orbit air sander, etc.) but could not get a good color match. I would myself never try to refinish for just color.
Did have one bubble after I got it sanded down, just a poly patch worked and re-sand the area and top coat .
It works and is comfortable anyway.
>>Many years ago, tried to find a 6 ft long tub that was not a huge jacuzzi, could not find.>>Took an oval 5 ft tub and sawed it in half and added in 2 feet. Errrrrrrr. 5 + 2 = ????
With my mouth I will give great thanks to the Lord; I will praise Him in the midst of the throng. For He stands at the right hand of the needy, to save them from those who would condemn them to death.
- Psalms 109:30-31
maybe that's why it was so hard to install.
Well, no addition error, would have been satisfied with 6 ft if no work, but if I hadda 'cut and paste', might as well go for 7 feet <G>.
junkhound-
Man, you are a friggin' hero!
Edited 4/14/2007 11:33 pm ET by rez
I have a friend who repairs and refinishes these as part of his appliance and bathtub refinishing business. Final coat is automotive paint, with hardener. Most important part is to get the tub scrupulously clean.
I have a friend who is a retired auto painter .
Ill bring this up with him because Im wondering how hard is hard with that kind of paint .
Of course epoxy can be made like bricks . Im my past experience which was too long ago it wasnt very pretty paint. I could probably have a candy apple red tub now with sparkles. <G>
Tim
tim,your headed in the right direction with the automotive painter.this is what i call my profession,bodyman painter when i'm not playing landlord. he will fill you in on what he would use,but heres my reciepe.
first sandpaper 400 grit wet or dry, some dawn dishwashing soap,sand and clean really well with soap,rinse run over it with just sandpaper.if you have some bubles dig them out and use body plastic on them. i use dixtler /ppg products if you can't get them go with dupont ,siekiens, sw [auto paints] etc.
once dry i would shoot a coat of dp40 expoxy sealer on it,let dry a hour come back with db u in a white,then 2 coats of urethane clearcoat. cost wise this is probably in the 200-225 range for materials. this is the same as a repaint on a boat or corvette and much easier than a cast iron tub.
i'd be talking to your buddy and see if you had them preped and masked if he would come shoot them for you and the staek dinners on you. larryhand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
I feel a lot better Larry.
The tub guy is going to refinish the bad tub for 500,00 material and labor and I dont touch nothin , faucets , er nothin.
Ill pick somthin else to pick on. <G>
Thanks a bunch. I thought he was makin a lick.
I would have been better off if he had finished them both!
Tim
Pretty sure Ive been had .
I refinished the first tub by wet sanding and buffing . Not a pretty tub but passed.
Second tub has the bubbles in it from the fire.
Guy finally shows up and takes a vibrator sander with 120 grit dry.
He tells me to clean it up for some reason so I do cause if I dont hes sacrin me .
He calls today and says hes done . He tries to over charge me . As I said earliar here it was 500 bucks per tub and I did one . The bill was 742.00. Finally wrote him a check for 542 and he was pizzed. As Im writing the check I see this plastic bag but Im in the middle of the pay arguement . He leaves and I notice the bag again . I walk over and open it and its got spray bomb cans of appliance epoxy white! I coulda done that easily and Im a better painter than he is so now Im pizzed. <G>
Tim
Yup, you got took. I've tried using that epoxy paint and it always yellows. Can you stop payment on the check?
Well , Im kinda strange about that .
I look at it as my fault for not asking enough questions and gaining enough imformation. I didnt ask.
Once I write a check Im normally all in and all done . Its not the time to counteract after you pushed your chips in.
Im sure he cashed the check within an hour as thats the type I judged.
On the other hand we should do business with reputable people but this guy is the only one doing tub warranty work in this area so that means hes the only tub guy in business .
Tim
I got to thinking more about this. I don't know if you are aware, but the same auto paint that a person can spray on a car can be put into aerosol cans at the auto paint store. If they put hardener in it at the auto paint store, one had 4 hours or less to use it. If the hardener is left out, you have a large window of opportunity, but the paint is not imperviuos to solvents then. (I don't understand the chemistry, but this is how my auto body paint supplier explained it to me.)If you have "paint bomb cans" that aren't labeled as though for retail sale, chances are the fellow got paint cans filled with auto paint instead of using his own sprayer and having to clean up. The problem is that a tub is too large, really, to keep a good, even, wet edge going. The paint i got figured out to about a dollar and ounce, too...not cheap, but certainy not in the range he billed for. The good news is that it won't yellow, like the crappy appliance paint sold in aerosol cans at home stores.
Thanks for the thoughtful response.
Im close to Larry except Im a finish painter from way back with no experience with fiberglass . I have a close friend who is a retired car painter that had a shop for years on main street . Hes very knowledgeable, Any way, I never asked him about this and never considered painting it till yall mentioned it and I had already gave my word to this guy . I didnt mention but he broke several appointments so I could have shagged on him . He was no call and no show at least three different times but thats beside the point . Only to explain why I didnt paint it .
I didnt know any thing about fiberglass but I can do one H^ll of a better job spraying than he did . Of course I can because Ive got equipment . It would not have scared me at all to shoot that tub with epoxy as Ive sprayed a lot of it . I thought I needed a fiberglass repair man. I could have ripped the tub out and set a new one on one day. The tub cost 360.00. Oh well. Im still learning and Im an old dude. <G> You would think stuff l;ike this would stop slipping up on me , haha.
I did what Larry said and played with my new tractor the past two days . I think IM in love .
Tim
that sucks big time, best you can do now is spread the word about the guy.why is he upset if he tells you a price and that is all you want to pay at the end?
i very seldom hire anything done,there are times halfway thru i think"i screwed up,should of hired somebody" but then when i do it goes just like your deal. one thing i do hire done is carpet laid and i'm looking for a new layer after using the same guy for over 20 years .i can't find one,i sure don't want to but i may have to get my kickers and strechers out and start doing it myself again.
i don't understand how guys that have 30 properties hire everything done,i would go nuts!
click on my profile and read my quote,i live by it! go play on the tractor today and have some fun. larryhand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
Hey
Im tryin to catch Piffin. <G>
I inspected the tub this morning shot with the bomb cans of epoxy. Looks like he used his had to wipe runs . It was rough as a cob from dust and trash. There two places that really didnt cover at all and severl holidays showing the tub color underneath. Theres sandpaper marks every where from the 120 grit he used dry.
I cant live with it . I sanded the top down with water and wet and dry 400 which took part of the paint off . I used 600 on the bottom tub portion . I thought it was just too much to buff. So now Ive got a brand new problem with out the help of the only fiber glass guy around here. I dont want him back on my job so lets not go there please. Thats not an option.
Im ready to rip the tub out and install a new two piece .
Or refinish what Ive got .
He used 5 cans best I can tell of the epozy bomb cans and left 6 unused . I figgured if any thng I could fix it and shoot it again with the same stuff .
I asked about the two part marine epoxy from the only auto paint store we have here and they said HUH? They dont have a clue and cant get it . He did tell me my residential guns probably dont have a big enough orfice to shoot gelcoat but thats not a problem ecept Ive never even seen gelcoat wet. Bit of a probem right there .
I can travel 65 miles and buy two part epoxy paint in bomb cans mixed for me but I have an hour to shoot it . Whats the point ? It will take me more than an hour to get to the job site from the city of FT Smith, Ar.
I have this other problem or question.
I already have this paint on the tub. I bought some spot creme for auto body Im going to trowel on the tub and sand down like you would a car fender. Im taking a chance there bonding to the paint I have now . What about the two part epoxy? He said theres a primer for that ?
Do I need to fetch my skill saw and sawsall?
Tim
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The holidays sound like silicone contamination. Dry-sanding it just spreads it around; you need a silicone remover to get at the contaminant. If you have spray equipment, why not get the paint, hardener, and reducer from an auto paint store, mix it yourself on-site, and spray it? Whatever you do, DON'T let anyone convince you to put an anti-fish-eye substance in your paint. It is more silicone and will contaminate all your equipment.If you aren't removing the drain while you're doing this, you may as well get out the Sawzall because that's where the coating will fail. From the quality of the job so far, it sounds doubtful that step was done. *sigh*
No the drain wasnt removed . If I do remove the drain I might as well extract the tub because I will have a wall opened up to gain access to the rest of the plumbing as well.
The auto body paint store could not order two part marine epoxy.
Im headed to the lustrious harware store now . What a joy to live in a small town far away from big ones.
Be leaning on the sawsall into the tub. <G>
Tim
In the tub drains i've removed, i've inserted the handles of a pair of pliers into the drain and just unscrewed it - no need to open the wall unless you really like doing that sort of thing. Clean off the plumbers putty, spray, reinstall when cured. Sure, you can get the special tool to remove the drain, but where's the challenge in that? <G>
Youre right as long as the drain stays put . Im usually taking the whole assembly out if Im going that far. Thats a catch basin fitting on a tub about 8 inches long.
On the other hand Im a drywall guy so its not a big deal. I think every tub should have an access door from a cabinet door left over if its in a presentabe place like this one . It backs into a closet.
Tim
I do that with all my remodeling...back the tubs and showers up to closets on the other side. I'd likely take a bar to the job at this point, too...
Hey. What's going to save you time and money from the point of seeing that you can't live with his paint job- replace or sand/fill/sand/re-fill/repaint?Gelcoat that has just been sprayed is not glossy. It hardly looks like the finished product at all, for that matter. It needs to be sanded, polished and if possible, clear coated. The reason boats shine at all is that on some boats, the gel is sprayed into a mold that has been occasionally polished. The fiberglass is laid or sprayed over that and the whole thing is removed from the mold later. If it's not done this way, it looks like he!! right after spraying. You don't want to spray gelcoat. FYI- fiberglass is usually filled with polyester resin, Bondo or resin mixed with Bondo. As long as the spot cream hardens enough, it should be OK.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
"FYI- fiberglass is usually filled with polyester resin, Bondo or resin mixed with Bondo. As long as the spot cream hardens enough, it should be OK."
Will the spot creme need primer if I use this bomb can epoxy? I wasnt able to find two part epoxy in this town but Im not hand cuffed here .
Im still leaning on the sawsall. New tub remodel deal for 369.00 plus labor or shoot another coat of what he used and say enough. Wax that and try to protect it .
Tim
If the old tub was damaged by fire, it's probably going to fail at some point and if it was me, I wouldn't want all of that water going where it shouldn't, especially if someone fills it for a bath.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
tim i hate to say your kinda screwed ,but i think i would grab the sawsall and go get a new shower,or if you want to really upgrade over the builder house across the street throw in a 5' whirlpool from hd and tile it,cost 700.
heres what i'm thinking on your paint job. first no matter what you do now it's going over a crappy job ,thats your base. so no way would i get carried away with a epoxy or urathane paint,they will both probably lift the spray can stuff[thats where it wrinkles the paint].if you want to try one more attempt i would sand it as smooth as i could,turn the air cond. on and get it as cold as possible in there,turn the air off and grab the spray cans that he left and try and give it a coat of paint.[the reason for the air on is to slow the drying down as much as possible so that you might keep a wet edge].
second thought i just came up with and i'll tell you i think this is on the edge right before you grab the saw. go to sherwin williams and talk to them about some sort of moisture cure polyurethane,maybe something for a pool,grab a roller and paint,then go to lunch and come back and say"thats what i get for taking advice from the internet! give me the friggin sawsall
with that last idea i think i'll just sign off as "just another cheapazz landlord lol"hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
Tim;
Sounds like you just paid some more tuition into the college of hard knocks.
You aren't the type to cut corners when it looks like spit. You want this house to look as good as the others nearby. I'd be putting in a new tub - probably steel, then some tile. Hang in there. Remember, there's always small claims court...
For what it's worth, my neighbor just refinished two cast iron tubs with the two part kits. I saw them the day he did them and they looked great. I asked how they hold up and he said he doesn't know, he tells everybody no abrasives when he sells the house.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
"I asked about the two part marine epoxy "I am not sure what you are talking about. But there is a 2 part ureathane paint that is used on boats and planes.Expensive and not easy to handle..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
hey