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I would like to install dry wall over plaster. The plaster is in good shape, however, there are some cracks and the surface is in rough shape. I realize it would be best to remover the plaster, but, I don’t want to get into that. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Wall or ceiling? Have done both. Think about jamb extensions, insulation and whatever else might push you to take off the plaster. If nothing appears to be a problem, then go over it. To be safe, you should screw through the plaster lath and hit the stud or joist. Figure your screw length to accomplish that. Best of luck.
*Ditto calvin,Just use long screws to get to the studs. We do it all the time. Sometimes with 1/4" rock if the plaster's in good shape.Ed. Williams
*i The plaster is in good shape, however ...Then why ditch it?There's always the option of skim-coating the plaster, and several ways to do it. We do it all the time, repair cracks, bonding agent and skim coat, or, if worse, plaster washers and NuWall, if really worse, full weight fiberglass fabric set in thinned joint compound. You have to weigh the amount of work to do this against the value of leaving your trim where it is, especially if it is of historic value, or gets into crown molding, etc.Drywall is an i easier finish, but not a i better finish, than plaster, at least IMO. We're so used to it, so used to doing it, that it's like that old saying, "When you are a hammer, all of your problems look like nails."There are other ways to your end, especially since you say that the plaster is in good shape, except for the surface. Then, just deal with the surface.Jeff
*I'm with Jeff on this one. A good plasterer will do wonders to your walls for a lot less than a total drywalling.Gabe
*Hey Gabe,Down here in the South US, it's hard to find a good plaster guy. They are around, but busy.Who am I to talk the archictedt and homeowner out of sheetrocking over the plaster? If the stress cracks show up again, then I'm to blame.I'll put the ceiling on the floor or the floor on the ceiling if that's what they want.I don't argue with them any more. Unless.........Ed. Williams
*b TVMDCOne issue which would sway which way you do it is if the original plaster is ACM (Asbestos Containing Material). If so, the cost of 1/4" rock is, maybe, 5-10% of the cost of having the plaster abated. Asbestos tests in LA are only $35/sample (3 recommended). It is worth the investment to see what you have.
*jeff,Have installed board around casings and base, close cut and then flat taped to the edge. This was of course where the casings were beautiful and would have been messed up on removal. The depth of the trim still left enough reveal to look good. Just another option.
*Hi Ed,You're right that local conditions have a great impact on which way to go on a lot of these situations.Good plasterers are hard to find in most areas except major cities. For example, in Ottawa, because of the large number of historical buildings and homes that are always being restored, there are quiet a few top quality contractors that specialized in plaster.In spite of this you will find 10 times more drywall tapers than plasterers. I imagine, it's the same where you are.Stay safeGabe
*True, but the fiberglass mat method or skim coating would effectively encapsulate the asbestos, right? I do agree on testing for it, and if the plaster is in poor condition with friable pieces (not the case here)something must be done. Nothing would expose you to more ACM than removal, which is a real mess even w/o asbestos.Jeff
*i Down here in the South US, it's hard to find a good plaster guy ..But I find it hard to believe that there aren't any painters dealing with surface repairs w/o plaster. Plaster skim-coating has a disadvantage over surface repairs in that it does carry with it a minimum 1/16" or better build on the wall, which affects casings and trim, too. Just not as much as drywall.Jeff
*I hate the look of drywall over plaster as it tends to bury the strim and baseboards, reducing the reveal and creating a "cheap" effect. I just don't like it. On the practical side, locating studs and joists in old houses can pe problematic: spacing is not always standard or consistent and you are likely to have a lot of misses as you try to sink screws or nails through drywall, plaster and into wood. Don't count on the wood lath as a sufficient substrate to sink sink screws or nails into either. Drywall joints that are not firmly immobilized tend to crack.Been there and glad that I either fixed the plaster or stripped it off. After having done it both ways, it was easier to repair or remove.WSF
*Finding studs when the studfinder won't -Cut a section of heavy wire, like a coathanger, and bend into a U-shaped piece with curved corners, taking care to make sure that the two ends, about 6" apart and 4" long, are in the same plane.Drill a hole through the plaster near a best guess for a stud, insert the wire and hold perpendicular to the wall so that the end inside the wall and the end you can see outside are referenced alike. Rotate until you hit the stud - the outside wire tells you approximately where that is. If you miss, move on with another (easy to patch) drill hole.OK it's DIY-style, but it works. Also works for confirming no studs for location of outlet boxes, etc.
*Jeff, time for a better stud finder. One trick you may want to consider is to put the electronic finders away and use a cheap magnetic stud finder. In older plaster walls, over wood laths, all the laths are nailed to all the studs with small nails. The trouble with most electronic stud finders is that they have to be re-calibrated all the time. So you start with one density reading and it detects changes. In an older plastered wall over wood lath, the density changes between the areas that have plaster/lath and the areas that are only plaster (between the laths) and the areas that have plaster, lath over studs and the areas that are plaster over studs.So....I think you see my point.GabeGabe
*Gabe - Yeah, they make good stud finders today. Bring one over, you won't find i anyof my studs. Walls are 1" cement-based plaster on metal lath. That's the kind of difficult condition to which I was referring.Jeff
*Jeff, in that case you revert back to the original stud finder. SOUNDING THE WALL!My digital will locate studs behind 1 inch cement over metal lath without any problem. I even use it to locate rebar behind 2" of concrete.But the truth be known, I usually use the butt of my hammer to sound the wall studs more often than not. Most times it's not worth the time to go find my finder.Gabe
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I had a job where the contractor tried the 1/4" drywall and ended up with wavy walls where his lines of screws pulled the drywall in. The problem didn't show up till the walls were painted of course. Ended up skimming out the entire job and repainting. Everyone wished we had just repaired the plaster.
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Another vote for the plaster. If you go with drywall, might bonding it with construction adhesive help reduce the number of fasteners, waviness, & movement?
Q: How do you guys who repair rather than hide plaster fix cracks so that the repair itself doesn't show ... without skimming the entire wall/ceiling?
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I would like to install dry wall over plaster. The plaster is in good shape, however, there are some cracks and the surface is in rough shape. I realize it would be best to remover the plaster, but, I don't want to get into that. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Here's a vote for plaster washers, 3' self adhesive mesh and Durabond. If you can drywall you can do this.