Replies

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Apr 05, 2007 02:32am | #1

   I imagine that's largely a function of where you're building...

   PaulB

    

2. 
   grpphoto | Apr 05, 2007 02:49am | #2

   I would put a barrier down. Cheap insurance against termites.

   George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service

1. 
   lydensden | Apr 05, 2007 03:02am | #3

   What sort of barrier would you use?

1. 
   grpphoto | Apr 05, 2007 03:13am | #4

   That depends on the extent of the termite problem. Here in New Jersey, strips of roll roofing are usually used. When I worked in Georgia, we used strips of galvanized steel. In both cases, the strips were flush with the outside edge of the foundation and stuck out at least 2" on the inside. We bent the steel strips down at about a 45 degree angle on the inside to make it harder for the little buggers to build their mud tubes over the strips. The roll roofing used here curls down naturally.If I were building in the Baton Rouge area, I would probably opt for 1/4" armor plate. :-)George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service

2. 
   scottthebuilder | Apr 05, 2007 04:42am | #5

   Any "termite shield" you devise has got to be non-reactive with the ACQ treating compound. It is acid and will eat standard galv. steel sheetmetal for lunch. I just had this conversation with my sheetmetal guy and he is saving stainless steel that is dinged or scratched for me to use on an upcoming project. My home, in Florida, which was built in 1940 has zero termite damage and has a continuous termite shield and sheetmetal caps on all the piers. We also surrounded all the piers and perimeter with a mixture of half lime half course builders sand, 12 inches wide and a half inch deep.(an Australian trick I read about, their termites are 10 times worse than ours) The new environmentally friendly termite treatments just don't seem as effective as the good old chlordane of the old days. It would be foolish IMHO not to use some type of termite shield that turns down 45 degrees and extends at least an inch or so to the inside of the foundation and all the piers. CHEAP INSURANCE even if you have to use something "exotic". On another note, am I the only person concerned with the frequent use of ACQ scraps and dimensional lumber "left-overs" in my frame jobs. I can't tell you how many times I have seen Coke and Taco framers using ACQ PT throughout the frame of a new house for blocking, a rafter here and there, maybe a stud or some bottom plate with regular nails in it........

   Scott

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Apr 05, 2007 05:53am | #6

   heres a special use of treated. friend of mine had a 2800 sf house built a year ago.to make all this better house is done in synthetic stucco.  not one piece of treated for the sill,nowhere just the little foam sill sealer between concrete and the sill. so when the framers got to the attached three car garage.hey what are we going to do with all this treated stuff? oh i know we'll stud the 14' walls with it![i'm sure they just shot reg nails] then when inspection came they were suppose to be on 16" centers in a wall that tall,so the framers came back and stood reg.2x in between,now it's on 12" centers.what a  mess. if this house is still standing 25 yrs from now i'll buy lunch. larryhand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.

2. 
   caseyr | Apr 05, 2007 06:33am | #7

   Copper would probably be better than galvanized as copper has some anti-termite properties and also would be less likely to produce a galvanic situation with the treated wood. Unfortunately, copper has gotten a bit pricey these days...