Replies

1. 
   seeyou | Apr 26, 2003 12:52am | #1

   Don't know about the durability of those products, but I've used a piece of copper wire nailed to the sheathing beyond the side of the valley copper to hang the little pieces on. Apply a little dab of high grade caulk (Geocel for example) underneath each piece to  keep it from swinging on the wire. I've done this with tile, but it should work for fake slate as well.

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 26, 2003 03:05am | #2

   That's similar to what I've done with real slates.

   Take a copper strip ( you've probably got access to some scrap, I know) about a half inch wide and ten inches long. nail it in place, overhanging the valley so that the battom of it is about a half inch further down than the slate will be. Place the slate with a dab of caulk to achor it and then bend the tail of the copper strip up over the bottom of the slate.

   Works same way for patch replacements..

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   seeyou | Apr 26, 2003 11:32pm | #3

   Yeah, Piffin, that's the way I replace field tile/slate, but the original question was about those little triangle pieces that inevitably occur at the valley. The bottom edge of the piece is parallel to the center of the valley. The strap method could allow the small piece to slide down hill on a steep roof unless there's some other trick to it I haven't seen.

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 26, 2003 11:51pm | #4

   Between the dab of caulk and the edge running into the adjacent tile with a W style valley, it can't go anyplace else.

   The wire trick is probably beeter though because the tab can hold onto debris in the valley..

   Excellence is its own reward!