Well I’ve been out in the yard this morning since it is such a beautiful day here in central AR…
And I note my asphalt drive on my rural 1-acre lot, has its “edges” degrading…as in – in some places it’s now just “chunking off” in pieces. Huh. This is a relatively new issue (the house is only ~5.5 y/o and the drive is only about 4.5 y/o).
How I can stabilize the edges of the driveway where it is starting to crumble?
TIA!
DUM SPIRO SPERO: “While I breathe I hope”
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Replies
was yur driveway put in by the tile guy????
seems a bit early for that to be happening... sounds like an unstable base...
asphalt patch for the badly broken places... (looks like asphalt in an 80# bag).. toss the broken off pieces and replace with patch... rent the tamper... directions on the bag will guide ya... make sure to clean out the loose stuff where the patch is going...
liguid sealer for the cracks...
this problem is never going to go away and repairs are only temperary at best...
rip it all and do it again... covering over really doesn't work unless you repair the base...
do it it in concrete...
BTW ... how is the tile job going...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
was yur driveway put in by the tile guy????
ROAR!!!! (answer: who knows?)
seems a bit early for that to be happening... sounds like an unstable base...
Well the vast majority (the "field") of the driveway is doing quite well ..
but you know how they place the base, do the asphalt application and roll it - typically - during installation - but then that leaves the edges being sloped down to grade? Well its areas of that edge with the RDG transition between sod and asphalt, that have weed intrustion and weathering effects and now have areas that are "chunking off".
asphalt patch for the badly broken places... (looks like asphalt in an 80# bag).. toss the broken off pieces and replace with patch... rent the tamper... directions on the bag will guide ya... make sure to clean out the loose stuff where the patch is going...
Driving me back to the box store eh? sigh... BTW, Couldn't find the HS1465 or 1470 at local dang boxes so ordered THOSE online - and with my luck being SFL...of course got email notice they're on BACKORDER and maybe I'll get them in June...sometime...so back to local retailers and picked up similar chipper bit and got home...NO BIT in bag! no shid...and so it goes. S-L-O-W-L-Y
liguid sealer for the cracks... this problem is never going to go away and repairs are only temperary at best... rip it all and do it again... covering over really doesn't work unless you repair the base... do it it in concrete...
OK, I hear ya - but you know I'm not spending the rest of my life here...so gotta weigh various factors into all this. Plus, reality is it is JUST starting to fray on some portions of the edges and as usual, I like to take care of things promptly (if/when possible) rather than let them get too far along when one's options become severely limited.
BTW ... how is the tile job going...
SEE ABOVE...LOL! (well it was a tough long week at the day job y'know so didn't really progress things much between M-F, although from the bit tale above, you can see I TRIED! and am still at it)DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
ROAR!!!! (answer: who knows?)
The guilty party....
Well the vast majority (the "field") of the driveway is doing quite well ..
have you developed tire "ruts" in the field...
but you know how they place the base, do the asphalt application and roll it - typically - during installation -
Typically yes... But WTB some corners were cut.. the base is more than likely thin. poorly rolled and on an unstable substrate....
but then that leaves the edges being sloped down to grade?
and weak....
Well its areas of that edge with the RDG transition between sod and asphalt, that have weed intrustion and weathering effects and now have areas that are "chunking off".
kill off the weeds with a petroleum based "do 'em in".... stabilize thew edges as best ya can... cold process cement works here... (BB roofing department) then replace the chunk offs with yur patch...
Driving me back to the box store eh? sigh...
they deliever... ROAR!!!!!
BTW, Couldn't find the HS1465 or 1470 at local dang boxes so ordered THOSE online - and with my luck being SFL...of course got email notice they're on BACKORDER and maybe I'll get them in June...sometime...so back to local retailers and picked up similar chipper bit and got home...NO BIT in bag! no shid...and so it goes. S-L-O-W-L-Y
OUCH!!!
Cancel yur OL order... two bits are on the way...
OK, I hear ya - but you know I'm not spending the rest of my life here...so gotta weigh various factors into all this.
Put a few hours in on the repair... call it good...
Plus, reality is it is JUST starting to fray on some portions of the edges and as usual, I like to take care of things promptly (if/when possible) rather than let them get too far along when one's options become severely limited.
pour on the cold process cement...
6 mos before ya bail resurface the drive with a top coat...
BTW ... how is the tile job going...
SEE ABOVE...LOL! (well it was a tough long week at the day job y'know so didn't really progress things much between M-F, although from the bit tale above, you can see I TRIED! and am still at it)
A grin in a box is on the way...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Nope, no "tire ruts" evident anywhere on the drive as yet...
And I just cleaned up from spending the entire day on yard and drive's edge - yanked out weeds that were intruding, and the broken "pieces" that were pretty bad in one section of about 8 ft length...
Called the big box and talked to lady asst mgr as I looked at my receipt and DANG it all if they didn't charge me for 10 (TEN!!!) of the black plastic downspout extending tubing (and all I got was ONE 10' length for $3.83!) - jeepers! I thought the bill a little high but had figured the bit I had in my cart was about 20 bucks worth...but they didn't give me my bit (no idea where the dang thing got off to!) nor charge me for it, so now gotta head back there to get bill remedied. Think I can backcharge them for my gas and time for running back there AGAIN?!?!? LOL!
You really sending the viper bit my way? Dang dude - then you're gonna put me in the position of wondering what can I do for you...lord knows I don't have any of those hand made caramels from WI hanging around...so your sending those my way is gonna be a "HMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmm" kinda dilemma!!!!
DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
quit pulling them... the weeds that is....
cut off the tops at asphalt level and chemically kill what's left over....
both bits are on the way as we speak... well as far as the PO substation will move them on a weekend..
hope you don't mind dusty and pretested.... no delemma.... enjoy...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
ok - I hear ya.
As to dusty and pretested and "mind'ing" ?!?!? you ARE kidding - right?
more like
be grateful
(THANK YOU)DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
I don't mind at all....
ROAR!!!!!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 6/3/2006 9:29 pm by IMERC
ok, asphalt 101
asphalt is not a good product that does get used daily. as the asphalt heats and cool during the day, summer and winter. Its expands. doing this time it create air voids. If it doesn't get rolled back into compaction by the automobile weight, it breaks. asphalt will pass water it is not permeable. so the water that is holds, freezes.
asphalt needs to be heated by the sun daily and rolled daily by traffic to stay in shape and then the lifespan of asphalt is no more than five years.
Asphalt paving used in Florida is not exactly the same as is used in the north. mixed for average temperatures . A well placed and maintained asphalt road surface can last ten years. Most copmmon point of failure is poorly prepared base.mizshredder probably has a situatiuon wheree the base gradually blenmded between good installed base to the edges where it was mixed with the native soil. it is weaker there and gets more of the water damage you describe. She could cut it all back 6" narrower and pour concete curbing to solve the problem, but that's a lot of work for a young filly unless she has a lot of frustrations to work out on hard labour, LOL myself, I'd just ignore it and spend more time on BT
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
myself, I'd just ignore it and spend more time on BT
Wish I could!!!!!!!! (Ignore it that is...but I'm an "ARE", y'know!)
ROAR!DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
Well................ living in central AR I can tell ya that asphalt drive of mine does indeed get heated by the sun daily and seeing as I'm a working kinda gal...it also gets driven on repeatedly daily also.
In truth, the vast majority of the drive is holding up quite well; and although every summer the gypsies come along (NOT kidding here) and want to give me a "special deal" and "coat it" for "only $200 cuz we're working in your neighborhood this week"...I gotta tell ya BB that when it rains, and since the drive is sloped (as is the lot), the water rolls off it readily.
I think Piffin hit the nail on the head when he talks about I have some edges where the intrusion of native soil/weeds and the like are being opportunistic in helping break down the asphalt's edge area. No idea what young filly he's referring to as there's only an old crazy broad living here these days! But I DO like the idea of perhaps cutting the asphalt back and installing a strong concrete edge...both from the structural aspect and the aesthetic on. Will ponder that awhile.DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
a rim / edge of paver tilesLife is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
no offset chisels... new or used... sorry...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
No problem buddy.DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
As someone who has sealed asphalt driveways and parking lots for seven years I am quite familiar with your problem. When we ran into that crumbling edge, the best thing to do was to take the crack filler that we had heated up to 400 degrees and pour it in a thick line right on the edge. Then I would squeegee it to cover the edge. It was smooth going for the most part. This methid really works well. It costs $400 dollars to do this, at least when I was working there.
Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Crack filler heated to 400 deg and squeegee'd...
ok
Now if I go to call around for someone to do that - what specifically do I ask for? "Can you help stabilize the crumbling edge of an asphalt driveway - do you have the appropriate (fill in the blank__________) crack sealer that you'll heat up to 400 deg and squeegee on? How much per linear foot (or what's the ROM estimate based upon__________)?"
In other words, appreciate your info but would further appreciate advice on how to utilize it...being just a PITA HO DIYer with zero asphalt drive experience, I need help!
Or is this something you think I can do myself? if so - what's the product name and what does one use to get it to the right temp, etc...DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
hot asphalt is definitely not a DIY scene. The roofing stuff I used needed about 420°F application which menat that the kettle would run about 450°.Flash point was around 475°. Take s agood kettleman to avoid blowing himself up by managing the temp and the fame on the dragon's breathe.When applied hot, it is stiff at room temptho.The cold process advised by IMERC is small patch and DIY. Safer, but cure rate is longer and it ends up weaker
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
but it will stablize the edges and get the monkey off of her back fer a bit...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
oh yeah, probably the best way for her to go to get a few years.Time she's done with that, the house will give her another reason to visit the hardware stores. Co-dependent relationships are like that. The house needs us as much as we need the house
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
got it...
slice off the offending asphault... 8" or so...
replace it with CMU cap blocks...
use tamped road base under them....
bind / seal them to the field with cold process....
or form up to the outside and fill with CC... edge trowel to the field...
half doz bags at a time would go pretty far and might not be too much work at one chunk... trowel in control joints every couple of feet and it won't matter where she stops..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Works for me
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
This is the stuff that you see the highway crews spreading into cracks in concrete or asphalt. It is made by Koch Industries or around here in the Oklahoma region, Vance Brothers. Piffin is right, this is something best left to a sealcoater. It isn't sealer per se, but a petroleum rubber that is heated to about 375 degrees. It has to be constantly monitored and stirred to avoid overheating, much like chocolate when one melts it down. I used to stir these kettles and have seen an instance where it wasn't watched. It overheated and to compensate, the lid of the kettle simply went, boom and flapped open, releasing a large cloud of yellow sulphur smoke.When heated it becomes a viscous liquid. If overheated it will be very liquid, like water. That is too hot. It is called crack filler, not crack sealer. It will be ideal for your situation. It will call for an experienced squeegee guy to get it covered properly and completely. You may be able to call around and inquire about renting a crack filler machine or kettle. Vance Brothers rents these. They also rent to the city and the surrounding towns. Your situation will probably be news to anyone you talk when discussing this possible solution. But I have no doubt you will be able to relay this idea. I am sure others will try to offer alternatives but if this were my driveway I would do this. You may be able to get it done for less. I would be happy to get someone to do this for $250, maybe more if you have them seal any cracks too while they are out there.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
BTW the way I meant that I would be happy paying $250 if it were my driveway. I didn't mean I would find someone to do this lol.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Well ok - thanks y'all for the great advice - much appreciated!DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"