Replies

1. 
   calvin_ | Jun 01, 2001 03:57am | #1

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   Why not open up the wall and insert proper blocking to secure your new wall?

1. 
   xJohn_Sprung | Jun 01, 2001 04:22am | #2

   *The new wall has to be firmly attached to the old so that a crack or gap won't form there and cause a leak in the future. You have to open the old wall and put in a proper partition post. The basic rough carpentry books even at the big box stores will cover this. Then you have to get your moisture barrier continuous between the old and new work. Another consideration: do you really want the old exterior surface, whatever it may be, on one wall in the interior of the new rooms? That's a dead giveaway that the addition is an addition. One goal in building good additions is to make them look like they were intended to be there in the first place.I get the feeling that you probably live in a place where there's little or no code enforcement. In addition to a basic carpentry book, you should also check out Taunton's Code Check series. For a start, download the "Type V Sheet" from: http://www.lacity.org/ladbs/Forms/forms.htmGood luck.-- J.S.

1. 
   Mike_Willms | Jun 01, 2001 05:41am | #3

   *Ditto opening up the wall and installing backing. Like John said, you probably wont want siding as a wall finish in your new room. As well, you'll need to get power to your addition from somewhere, like that wall with the siding on it.

1. 
   Jim_Walters | Jun 01, 2001 11:51am | #4

   *>One goal in building good additions is to make them look like they were intended to be there in the first place. The eleventh commandment (above). . ..take the siding off or at least cover it with sheetrock if it's T-111, either way you'd then be able to cut a hole large enough to secure the tie-in.

1. 
   -TJ | Jun 02, 2001 02:44am | #5

   *I had already removed the exterior clapboards, but hadn't really wanted to strip the sheathing. I had expected to cover the old sheathing with the new sheetrock.I am concerned about code enforcement; but my next opportunity to talk to the building inspector isn't until next tuesday, and I may be doing that wall this weekend.My reason for not wanting to breach the old wall was to reduce weather infiltration - I won't have the roof on for a couple of months. Time to break out the plastic sheeting, I guess.Would [you] suggest horizontal blocking at the top, bottom & middle (between the two studs), or a standard channel (as if I were connecting two walls)?thanks,-TJ

2. 
   TLE_ | Jun 02, 2001 03:49am | #6

   *If your wall heights are the same you can add a short "third" plate to tie the tops together.If your house sheathing is wood, run some deck screws through the stud into it.Terry

2. 
   -TJ | Jun 02, 2001 03:49am | #7

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   I have a question; something that I haven't seen any references on in any of my source material.

   I'm about to the point of attaching the front & rear walls of my house addition to the existing house. The rear wall lines up with the rear wall of the house; therefore I have a firm corner to attach the new wall to.

   AT the front, however, the addition wall is set back from the front house wall 6'. My new wall is just about centered between two studs.

   The question is: what do I attach the new wall to?

   Granted, the new walls are basically freestanding; they depend on no structural support from the existing house walls.

   I don't really want to open the existing wall.

   I have had two suggestions: First is to indent the end stud on the front wall by 3/4", and insert a strip of 3/4" plywood to bridge between the new wall and the nearest stud - rather like a 10" wide tie strip.

   Second is to attach a 2x6 flat to the nearest interior stud, then screw the end stud of the new wall to this stud - edge to edge, using 10" TimberLok self-drilling screws.

   -TJ