Attaching Deck Ledger to T1-11 siding
Well not acutally attaching to the siding, but to a house with T1-11 siding.
The original deck was ALL cedar. And all the mistakes that could be made The ledger board was just nailed directly through the T1-11.
But it held on for dear life. The really weak areas was on the other side of the deck
I was concerned about rot hiding behind the ledger. However when the deck was taken down in the rot was minimal except for one end where there had been problems with the gutter. Had to patch a section.
Anyway the deck is going to be replaced and the structure will be all PT. (Eat your hearts out Tree Rats). And done right.
The question is about how to attach the ledger to the house through the T1-11.
I don’t like the idea of cuting out a section of the T1-11 to put in flashing for several reasons.
I would like to install it using standoffs.
But what is a good “system.
Classically stacked washer are shown. But how in the h*ll do you keep a stack of washers on 20 or some lag screws while installing a ledger board.
And how would you use that with Ledgerloks or SDS screws.
The spacing is 2 stagered rows of fasteners, each 30″ o.c. for 1/2″lags or 18″ for the structural screws.
So I see 2 options – gluing some 6″ squares of PT lumber to the back and marking the locations on the front.
Or I found theses, Deck2Wall spacers. Bit costly, but has no wood to wood contact.
http://www.screw-products.com/deck2wallspacer.htm#
And if using those and the structural screws you would maybe drill a small reference how through from the backside.
Any better ideas?
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid – Shoe
Replies
I vote for doing it like it was but fix the gutter.
I still don't trust having solid wood to wood contact with a place to trap water.And I think that the ledger caused some of the problems with the doors rotting. But that was not the main problems with the doors..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
I'm with Jim what's face...
the guy in post #2...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Just use some glue or duct tape to hold those in place
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BTW, I would use some silicone or geocell at each one to the siding also,
I did a rot repair a few years ago where a similar system was used. short lengths of balck ABS 1" pipe was used as spacers. A bad gutter situation let too much water strike at one place there
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Here's a product to look at. I've done similar with blocks of PT cut and tacked to the wall first.
deckblocksonline.com/installation.html
Do you have any idea of what those cost? One problem is that you need to use double the number for staggered screws. It is interesting that there is no address given and the only phone number is for a marketing company that did the web design.Winter Street Design Group. Sounds like the name of the company that worked with Lawarance on his Garden Structures website. But I checked and did not see any other name on it.I have not seen him on for a while. But looking at his website he has been busy. Lots of new dealers including one here in Kansas City. And even has Lee Valley selling his plans..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
No idea on the cost. I did a similar thing a couple years back. I just cut some 2" wide strips from some 1xPT and attached those to the wall vertically, spaced on 16" centers (where ever I planned a lag bolt). I even cut little points on the top of the spacers (like pickets from fence) to shed any water that got on top of the spacers. Without proper flashing, I instructed the clients that they had to be diligent in keeping leaves and other crude from accumulating in the gap between the siding and the ledger.In retrospect, a free standing deck would have been a better solution, but such is life.
I thought of free standing. But there are other complications.There is a concrete patio below. Actually I want to replace that and also change the shape. But I am being forced to do something with the deck NOW. I am thinking that the easiest way will be to cut the blocks and either put peal and stick on the back or caulk and then tack then on the wall with a nail gun..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
One of the contractors that am talking to about putting up the deck suggested the use of blocks from trex or PVC "boards".I like the concepts of using something like that. But I know that they are not "structural".But in this case the only thing that they need to resists is compression. And I don't have any idea of what the there rating is, but if trex can resist heels that it is strong enough in compression..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Do you ever get the sense that we tend to create more problems than the original one?
I found a report in Professional Deck Builder, March 2007, using standoffs made from composite decking and Fastenmaster (LedgerLok) has tested it gives a spacing pattern..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
the PVC boards will crush in load bearing..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
For standoffs, there's always this: http://deckbracket.com/. I think Mike Guertin used them in a project written up in FH within the last year, unless I'm thinking of another article.
Boy those have wide spacing from the wall. Looks like they might be a problem cantalevering the decking over them.I notice that there is absolutely no mention of use with PT lumber.IIRC they came out just befor the new PT. And there was discussion here about corrosion problems. But they don't mention it at all..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
If PT corrosion is an issue, you might cover the aluminum flange with Vycor before bolting it to the PT or a PT ledger onto the outer flange.
I'd reuse squares of cut up truck tires for spacers. You can find large pieces along the interstate. Be green.
I like the spacers; real cool. How about another option ... lose the connection and put columns in along the house to provide the support? Decks are a little awkward and as you ellude to, not always compatible w/ joining to the house. I agree w/ not wanting to compromise the T1-11, that could be asking for trouble. Separating the deck entirely eliminates a bunch of potential problems and keeps things clean. I'm not a deck expert, but have done a few decks and the connection seems always to be an issue. Even your spacers result in a penetration at the screw into the house. If you have snow/rain it can still be an issue.