Replies

1. 
   DanH | Jan 13, 2010 05:46pm | #1

   Uh, can't you remove the
   Uh, can't you remove the drawer, or just pull it out a few inches??

2. 
   calvin | Jan 13, 2010 05:56pm | #2

   Figure where on the box you have to fasten it. Get it close to right on with your measurements. Put the drawer front face down on the floor. Pull out drawer box, drill 2 slightly oversized holes in for mounting screws (not big enough the head will pull through-use a truss head screw), stand the drawer up on top of that drawer front and place it where it should go.

   Mount the box to the front through those two holes. Snug up the screws, not overly tight. Put it back in the cab, true up the location by loosening and tightening the screws/adjusting the placement. Get it right.

   Pull the whole thing out and screw the shit outta it to hold it together because with the pull on the top, it won't want to stay together.

   What's your plan for the drawer? pull out trash can thing? They make pretty good hardware for that purpose.

1. 
   Legacy | Jan 13, 2010 06:10pm | #3

   Thanks Calvin,

   Laundry Basket in the Bottom of a Linen Closet Set up.

   I have been avoiding this for a month.

   The client has lost patience now.

1. 
   calvin | Jan 13, 2010 06:20pm | #4

   Use a level across the bottom of drawers/doors to either side to help you align the bottom of the panel to the box. Or any straight edge for that matter. Measure from the straight edge to the bottom of the box-that'll be your locator measurement when you place the box on top of the front.

   Man, you are going to have to fasten the daylights out of it and still it'll want to pull that front off.

   How about if you run two diag. braces from the front to the back corners of the drawer box. Anything to take the torque off the top of the panel.

   Best of luck.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Jan 13, 2010 11:20pm | #5

   Would these help?

   View Image

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11298&filter=drawer

   You *could* use industrial strength velcro for positioning ;o)

   Agree that you could use diagonal ties to the rear of the drawer - maybe clear triangular plexiglas sides?

3. 
   FingerJoint | Jan 14, 2010 12:21am | #6

   Shim the back of the drawer so the front sticks out about a 1/16" from the cabinet front, and add a few pieces of double stick tape to the front of the drawer box. Carpet tape works good. Line up the drawer front and press it against the drawer box where you want it. If it looks good, slide the drawer out and add a couple of clamps before screwing it together.

4. 
   TomT226 | Jan 14, 2010 05:52am | #7

   Almost what Calvin said. I use pan head #8 SM screws and fender washers. Drill two 1/4" holes through the drawer box. Use double-stick tape, or measure and mark the face. Drive the screws. Check for clearence. If it's not rignt, loosen slightly and move until you get it right. Tighten up, and drive one more screw in to lock in place.

1. 
   rdesigns | Jan 14, 2010 10:15am | #8

   Variation:

   Shim drawer to stand about 1/16" proud of face, drive two brads in the drawer front, leaving about 1/4" of the brads sticking out.

   Nip the heads off the brads to leave about 1/16".

   Position the false front where you want it and give it a light rabbit punch to indent the brads into the back of the false front.

   Pull the cut-off brads with side cutters or end nippers or good pliers.

   Use the 4 locating dents to drill thru-holes for the screws in the drawer front, and shallow guide holes in the false front.

   Add more screws and sone kind of diagonal brace, as suggested in earlier posts.

5. 
   notatexan | Jan 19, 2010 12:36pm | #9

   I used hot melt glue. Put a couple of dabs on the drawer, position the drawer front where you want it, push together and hold. Pull the drawer out and add a clamp. Drill and screw however you want.

   If the dabs of glue cause a gap problem back the screws out, pop the pieces apart, scrape the glue, screw them back together.