DW would like a floating wall (i.e. not attached to ceiling) that could be 7′ tall to separate the foyer from some of the living space in an old queen anne style house. the main ceiling height is almost 10′. It would be attached on one end to the plaster wall at point A, run for about 7′ to point B, then make a 90 degree turn and run another 6′ or so to point C. (not attached to a wall on this end). I’ve got access to the crawlspace underneath the area and the joists run parallel to the BC segment.
What’s the best way to attach this and or build this wall so it won’t flex when pushed? I’m most concerned about flex in the BC segment, especially the free end. The floor is maple over 1×6 diagonal subfloor. So far all I can think of is either sinking lag screws through the bottom of the wall directly into the floor joists, or (2) through bolting through the wall and the subfloor and a piece of 2x stock glued and tacked to the underside of the subfloor. Should I also run some 2 x stock or plywood across a few of the joists to keep the joist with the load from deflecting upwards?
Is there any way to build this that won’t feel or be really flimsy?
Replies
At points B and C, I'd run a post down through the floor and bolt sideways into joists like a newel post. Stiffen joists as necessary. Sheathing the walls with plywood or OSB (glued and nailed) will also help. A few bolts through the plate and floor may be worthwhile but only if you add the plywood. I believe that these measures will give you as sturdy a wall as you can possibly get with attaching to ceiling.
It really depends how solid you want it. You could get a tee shaped HSS made and bolt it to both the floor joists and last stud. That won't go anywhere.
Both the previous responses will work well, just remember to spread the force over a large area by blocking the joists on both sides of the one the floating wall attaches to and then forward and aft of that point in the joist bays. Spread the fulcrum force out as much as you can and it will never be a problem. Good Luck!
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any thing like you describe in "an old queen anne style house" is going to look rinky-dinky, that said, if that's what she wants you don't need to worry about beefing up the structure, or it being wonky, since both walls are about the same length and only 7' tall. Just make a 2 X frame and sheet it on both sides with 1/2 ply to keep it from racking, then drywall. A couple of deck screws through the bottom should do it. That way it can be removed without much damage when the eyesore is realized ..
Here is how I would tckle this.
build it with 2x6s
glue and screw plywood to both sides after framing.
sink the outbound stud deep into framing of floor to be secured down under.
run a turnbuckle from the freeboard outbound high corner to the lower fixed corner running it in the middle of the wall by drilling through studs
tighten the turnbucckleand anchor that floor thru stud, then apply the plywood sides. then trim it out
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thanks -- replying to piffin but i greatly appreciate the advice of everyone so far.
How about a plate steel sandwich at the outer most stud, the one thats going through the floor?
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I don't think that alone would help much unless he is going to hook up to more steel in the floor frameing. There will be a lot of potential for leverage so steel in the studdding with need corresponding resistance in the base under
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Okay then, how about a "T" shaped piece of metal? This would run maybe three to five feet along the joist then go up into the new wall.
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sure
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First, it is called a partition wall.
Second, the only point that would need a brace throught he floor is the free end. The start end against the wall and then the corner should have plenty of support for intersecting walls.
You can glue the drywall onto the studs (use wood studs) and have a perfectly durable and stiff wall. no need for the added plywood which can complicate things a bit later.
The free end of the wall should be braced through to the joists below like others suggested. Pretty basic.
Another way to stiffen that free end would be to add a header over the opeing if the free end runs toward a wall. Treat it like a doorway with a small area of wall above and terminating into the adjacent wall. You could also add a column to the ceiling but I think they look tacky.
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How about a column (that runs to the ceiling) on the end of that wall.
And a matching pilaster (or half-column) where it starts.