Replies

1. 
   rez | Jul 10, 2007 03:42pm | #1

   Greetings shell,

   This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.

   Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.

   Cheers

   The dead and for the most part unmerchantable wood behind my house, and the driftwood from the pond, have supplied the remainder of my fuel. I was obliged to hire a team and a man for the plowing, though I held the plow myself. My farm outgoes for the first season were, for implements, seed, work, etc., $14.72½.
   -Thoreau's Walden
   
2. 
   GRCourter | Jul 10, 2007 04:12pm | #2

   Where did you find the PVC furring strips?

1. 
   shellock | Jul 10, 2007 04:26pm | #4

   I am cuting down Kleer (similar to azek) 1"x6" trim into 1"x3"x4' strips

3. 
   JTC1 | Jul 10, 2007 04:22pm | #3

   I assume you are talking about Azek or similar PVC to use as a furring strip to the concrete block? Then 4x8 sheets to the furring?

   The strips could be readily attached to the blocks with Tapcon screws.

   I think your problems will start when you go to attach the 4x8 sheets.  I do not believe the PVC strips will hold screws well enough to support the sheet goods.

   Maybe steel studs with the PVC sheets would be a better solution? 

   Just a thought.

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

4. 
   DDay | Jul 10, 2007 04:43pm | #5

   Are you planning on using the 4x8 pvc sheets as your sub floor? If so, pvc is not structural and I think you would have problems with that. And they are very expensive. I priced Azek 4x8 sheet and that was $180 each.

   I think there has to be some options better and cheaper than pvc.

   
   

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   Edited 7/10/2007 9:44 am ET by DDay

1. 
   shellock | Jul 10, 2007 05:04pm | #6

   PVC sheeet will be the bottum 4 feet of wall not the floor.  The floor will be a concrete slab.  The PVC sheets are intented to replace dry wall so that if flooding occurs agian i have no mold risk in the walls.  I do realize the expense but it is better then needing to gut the room every flood.

1. 
   DDay | Jul 10, 2007 08:51pm | #7

   Ok.Give a call to the area sales rep for Azek, its the same thing as Kleer. Any time I try anything different with pvc, I usually just run things by them where they deal with all kinds of situations and know the product inside and out. I would not trust just screwing it to the furring strips. Whatever method you use, if you use the pvc glue that will weld it together. Its the same reaction that pvc piping goes through and the two become one piece permanantly. Others would know better than me but maybe something like tapcons to attach the strips then glue and a faster to hold it while the glue sets.You could also do horizontal furring and use the tongue and groove pvc wainscoting for a nicer look, then a chair rail where the pvc goes to drywall. That would look nicer, and might be cheaper. I don't know what kleer has available but Azek has the wainscot and a number of other profiles available.

5. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 10, 2007 10:15pm | #8

   If you're gonna do it, think about using 5/4 material for furring strips, that's about an inch.  5/4 will give you plenty of material to shoot your screws into while the pvc cement sets up, and you should use the cement.  I assume you'll run a chair rail at the transition of DW/pvc.

    

   "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.