Attaching Siding through metal connector
Okay Pros. I have a few questions and I’ll thank you all now for any and all assistance ahead of time.
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My friend had a 2 car garage built. IAW the code requiring the metal connectors from the foundation to every other stud to prevent the building lift.
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The plan is to install Hardi-bevel plank siding on the back wall and use Cedar bevel plank siding on the other walls (matches the house)
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How does one nail through the metal connectors in to the studs. Studs are 16 inches on center. Requirement for nailing siding is no greater than 24 inches on center. The rough sheeting is ½ inch CDX.
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We don’t want to just nail into the sheeting because of lack of holding power. That and it will be a while before the inside of the garage is finished off.
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Are you defeating the strength of the connector by drilling through the connector to nail off the siding?
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Does anyone have any experience in this problem? I know its very different from hanging vinyl siding.
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Is there a pneumatic nailer you can use to drive a nail through the metal connector?
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Additional when he did the house with the cedar bevel siding used 6 penny ring shank nail in stainless steel. He had to pre-drill for each nail to prevent the siding from splitting. Any advise on how to do this with out all the pre-drilling?
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Again thanks look forward to reading the responses, Dave
Replies
It's always ideal, I suppose, to catch studs when nailing your siding, but, in my experience, not really necessary with CDX as the sheathing. (Our CDX is all 5 ply Doug Fir).
I usually nail F/C siding @ 12" to 16" and, living in an area where the wind can get pretty hurky in the wintertime, I've never seen any problems with my installs or that of others.
I use a siding gun that shoots a ringshank siding nail and if you pry off a plank, you will tear holes in the siding plank before you even budge the nails.
The strapping issue can be a PITA, though. We're in high seismic out here and the simpson 12 gauge exterior strapping can interfere with getting a flush surface on the siding.
One option is to install 1 X 2" vertical furring strips, but you'd have to offset alongside the straps, because no matter what nails of most any sort I'm familiar with will just be turned by the strap and come right back out the face of the siding....not a good thing!
On one house we built a couple of years ago, we sheathed with 5/8" CDX and routed and let in the straps so the surface was flush while we maintained the 1/2" sheathing required on the plans. It was a little extra time and expense but the HO insisted on it and the inspector didn't object.....
On edit I'll add: To attach at the strap locations, you could just drill them at the nail locations and either nail or screw. There is a screw for F/C plank that's used to attach it to the plastic webs on ICF blocks and they hold better than nails.
Edited 9/29/2006 12:53 am by Notchman
If you must nail to solid and the garage is unfinished, install blocking next to the studs with the straps from the backside.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I believe that the Hardi spec is to nail into studs every 16" or, if not, nail into ply sheathing every 12". Check their site for details. If your sheathing is good, you shouldn't have any problem with siding nailed into it. Just space the nails a bit closer.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA