I’m going to be attaching a bunch of 12ga. strut vertically to my cinderblock fences around the house. From this I will hang shelves, store wood, attach pipe and conduit, etc.
I was wondering what good options I have to attach this? 1/4″ Tapcons? Some other anchor or fastener that is better for cinder block? Epoxy in 1/2″ threaded rod?
Some of the block is 3.5″ thick, some is 8″ thick.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it’s because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Replies
This is probably overkill, but Hilti's HY-20 is pretty good for use in CMU walls.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I have hung some heavy stuff off epoxy threaded rods. Make sure you buy the epoxy and read the directyions before you spring for a new rotohammer bit. Some epoxies go 1/16 oversize on the hole, some go 1/8 . I'm assuming the cells on the cinderblocks are filled
No idea, but I would doubt it. I would sqirt some foam in there to backfill any voids before squirting in the epoxy. I've already got the Simpson setup so I'll be using that.
So Epoxy and rod is the best way to go then?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Assuming the cells were filled with concrete. The cinderblock walls are less than an inch thick.
So what if they are not filled? I was thinking about spraying polyurathane foam in the hollow cavity to fill the void so I don't waste epoxy. I realize that's not as strong as putting it through concrete, but it shoud still work I would think.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
No foam. Use plastic or SS epoxy screen tubes. The hardware store where you buy the epoxy will have them (Powers or Simpson). Tubes are quick, easy, and very strong. IMHO, the strongest blind hole method for hollow block.
Best!
-nazard
Ditto what previous poster said - SS screen tubes for hollow substrate. We use them all the time for commercial anchoring situations. The screen tube basically allows the epoxy to ooze out a bit to form a lump on the back that is larger than the hole thus locking in the anchor rod.
A lot of Home Depots now have a pretty good Hilti section, so look around (I'm sure you have two or three Depots within reach, right?).
Electrical supply houses sell some interesting anchors. The ones I'm using right now for hanging strut off walls are like 3/8 studs, with a 'nail' poking out the end. The idea is to set the anchor in the wall (using the nut & washer to set the depth), then hit the nail with a 4lb maul. The nail causes the base of the anchor to expand in the hole, setting it in place.
Another type is easy to set - but impossible to adjust: shoot anchor nails in! I see the various home centers have these tools and anchors available now. Personally, I don't like them because of the later difficulty in removing whatever they're attaching.
Machine screw anchors with lead sleeves work well in hollow masonry applications.
http://www.fastenermax.com/products/detail.asp?SKU=04213
Thanks everyone!
I went with 1/2" x 2 1/4" sleeve anchors. They were available at my local hardware store for about $1 a fastener. I looked, but no SS cloth/screen to be had.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.