Can I resaw Azek, then mill it to the thickness I want and not damage my tools or melt the material ?
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It works just like wood! Ain't it great!!!
Sure can, I been ripping on the bandsaw and bevelig out glass stops at 5/16" x 5/8" wedge shaped. I was tablesawing them, but with out a zero throat plate it was getting dicey.
Nastiest dust you EVER had to deal with tho' it clings to everything and reproduces if left overnight to double size.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Cool !
I am going to use it as a sanitary base inside the dog pens in the kennel.
Ought to be rot resistant, poo, and stain resitant.
Now if the dogs don't chew it off.
That is the main reason for resawing. Make it thin and bevel the top edge, so they don't get much to bite on.
Hope the stuff taste like s**t to them.
Edited 7/29/2008 4:51 pm ET by DaveRicheson
I think thats an ideal choice. Altho' my mutts HAVE picked up shop scraps of it and chewed it. So it mussn't taste TOO bad.
Besides, if it tasted like sh#t, they'd LOVE it..like cat poo.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
When you say 'mill it to thickness' I hope you don't plan on putting it through a thickness planer. You can put it through a wide belt sander.
I have, but I'm crazy.
Jointer-ed it too.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Why say that? It doesn't hurt the planer
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I was planning on a resaw to 1/2" thickness and then a pass through the thickness planner or drum sander, just to knock the saw maks off the back and take it down to 7/16". That would be followed by a pass over the router table to just put a 45* bevel on the top edge so the beasties doint have a square corner to start chewing on.
It is going over the FRP paneled Durock wall, and set tight to the 1" margin of SL-1 caulk at the perimeter of the concrete floor. I'll caulk any gaps at the bottom with a white polyurethane and any gaps at the top with a clear silicone. That along with the caulking and sealing that done durring the framing and cementboard installation should keep the pt plate and lower wall dry when the pens are hosed out.
If I leave a little saw dust in the dust collection system bag will it help the Azek dust stataic cling any?
I've done that when cutting plexiglass and it helps, though I still seem to clean up the escapies for days afterwards.
I believe they make azek in 1/2", I know they do in 4x8 sheets. That would save you a lot of trouble. Azek mills well but it terrible. You'll think it will be a lot and it will be at least twice as bad as the worst you could imagine.
A little off topic: Does Azek need to be primed prior to painting?
nope
I think it depends on the paint. Sherwin Williams Duration needs no primer.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Depends.there are some adhesion problems. That very slick surface makes it harder to get a mechanical bond so we sand it some to scuff the surface for tooth.Some primers have more bonding agent than topcoat paints so the chemical bond is stronger.Also, there have been some problems with darker colours on it, because the dark attracts more solar heat. That makes for greater thermal expansion which stresses the paint bond. A good primer can help buffer and again - provide a stronger chemical bondI am one who is very impressed with the Duration. I also recal reading here a few years ago when the Azek was a new thing, that they did recommend a certain primer made by Sherwin Williams. But when I went to my SW store and inquired, they just said that any of their exterior primers would hang onto the PVC products.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I've used Benjamin Moore exterior latex. No primer. Installed some 4 or 5 years ago. Still looks new. Takes paint well. I use a foam brush. Just watch your paint color. Spec says LRV should be 55 or higher so too much heat is not absorbed. One manufacturer, I think it may be Sherwin Williams, has dark colored paints for PVC that somehow gets around the LRV problem.
Spray your tools and yourself with "static-guard" before you start.Learned that one right AFTER I finished a job and my tools and I looked like the abominable.
Bing
Good idea! Never heard of it.
Using the vacumn on yourself sometimes creates m,ore static cling so the stuff jumps up off the floor just to hitch a ride on you.
And using the vac around your eyes and ears is not wise.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I've routed and table sawed it to make exterior sill nosing extensions. Easy to cut. They recommend carbide cutters. Routing produces cuttings like shredded coconut. Easy to drill and nail. Can get a little melt when drilling.
We work with Azek all day on normal woodworking equipment. It mills very well on all our equipment.