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How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersHighlights
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Here it is a little more viewable. Dial up would have taken an hour to see each one :(
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
A thousand thanks....I went to change the photos after I saw how obnoxiously huge they were but could not figure out how. I should have downsized before posting.Again, thanks MrBill
I'm assuming you're going to use insulated glass units? Those feel beefy enough on their own to use with an azek sash. I don't think I'd want to use Azek in a big single pane sash, Azek just seems too floppy.
I like the stuff, don't get me wrong. I can imagine it not offering a lot of support if painted a darkish color and left in the sun.
I've always bought low-e IG units from the local glass shop- they offer good service and advice along with the glass. I'd be worried about mail order, but maybe that's the only choice you have, I don't know. Call around to glass shops first though.
I hope you have a good dust collector for milling all that azek. Not the greatest smelling stuff, is it.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
No, not to great smelling and because it creates so much static (?) when cutting it sticks to everything. My neighbors thought I was a snowman after my first milling of it. I have a dedicated area now in a temporary "garage-in a box" to keep the stuff out of the driveway and garage.I know what you mean re: it being flimsy but in short length's, esp. the 5/4 (and now with the ATM Azek to Mill in 1.25") the stuff is stiff. THat gutter I made is rock solid, I could only make it in 10' lengths though because I work alone and that was the most manageable size.Thanks for the info.
If you heat it gently you can form a nice radius bend with it. I've bent ends for elliptical trim which would have shattered if bent under normal temps. These were small enough that I could heat the ends in an over. I'm going to try bending some 5/4x4 for some quarter rounds next. I plan to place a propane torpedo heater up to a stove pipe "T", place the Azec in the T perpendicular to the heater, and hope for the best.
Alan, given your experience with Azek, how would you build up the stock to make a window sill 2.75" thick by 11" by 42"? Stack them or do some kind or miter? Then use epoxy and fairing compound to make seams disappear? What about paint?
Is the stuff they sell at HD the same as Azek?
Marc
I would stack 2 pieces of 5/4, and 1 piece 1x *3/4" nom.). All glued w/ Azek cement and clamped 24 hrs. then mill on table saw or router or whatever. Once glued w/azek cement it is 1 piece. If there are seems Trimbonder acts as a caulk but it is pretty much "liquid Azek" cure time 8 min. Once cured it is hard as azek.I am no expert just a homeowner who had done pretty much everything on my 100 year old house in Npt. I have found Azek to be a miracle product.I have only used azek, I would not want to try kleer, miratek,fypon, Neverrot (HD brand) or whatever else. Why not stick w/ the original? I've had great luck with it. Why chance it for a few (maybe) less pennies) Hope this helps.
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I recently had to make built-up 2.25" 'supports' for a porch railing system and used HDs neverot. Although it is similar to Azek, the Azek cement did not work as well on the neverrot, perhaps the glossy surface had something to do with it, I don't know. Also, Neverrot is much more flexible than Azek, if that's possible. I'll use the Neverrot for economical reasons, but given the chance, I'll use Azek.
One of the yards here shifted from Azek to Kleer, and I can't tell the difference between the two.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.