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Backsplash question

Don | Posted in General Discussion on July 3, 2004 05:45am

About to tile a backsplash. Only two problems.

1) wall is not flat. Center of area is about 3/16 inch below plane from ends. Can I level it out w/ thinset and let it dry a few hours before going in and laying tile?

2) how much of a gap do I leave between the first course of tile and top of 4″ backsplash of post formed counter top? Do I fill w/ a silicone caulk or grout? Silicone makes more sense.

Thanks.

Don

The GlassMasterworks – If it scratches, I etch it!
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  1. FastEddie1 | Jul 03, 2004 07:34pm | #1

    3/16" in how many feet?  Yes, the thinset fill would work.

    Have you considered removing the formica splash and running the tile full height?  What about tiling the counter also?  If I was your wife, I would insist on a complete tile job.  Then again, if I was your wife I'd shoot myself.

    I would leave a gap about equal to the nominal joint width ... or about 3/16".  Fill with grout caulk, available in limited colors from Lowes, and many colors from tile stores.

    Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt



    Edited 7/3/2004 12:36 pm ET by Ed Hilton

    1. Don | Jul 03, 2004 10:24pm | #2

      Ed: Send me your address - I'll send you a pistol & 2 bullets (in case you miss w/ the first).

      Thanks. It's 3/16 inch in about 3 ft. Just enough that it will be a PITA for me to do it w/ varying thicknesses of thinset while it is unset. I have only done this once & watched a real tilesetter do it twice. Already have the countertop, & it has a built in back splash. I'm lucky that the wall is as flat as it is. I took out a section of regular wallboard & inset Hardie Backer, not realizing that the ICF's behind the wallboard were a bit un-flat. My wife is going to use this area to bathe dogs - 135 lb Rottweilers - and they tend to splash around a bit, so the tile is guaranteed to get wet.

      (Actually, I lied - it's three 12 lb Shih-Tzus, but they still shake & splash a bit. Bathe them and plan on needing to change clothes when finished.)

      DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!

      1. FastEddie1 | Jul 03, 2004 11:42pm | #3

        Slather on some high quality thinset and screed it with a 4 ft straightedge.

        Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

        1. Don | Jul 04, 2004 01:33am | #4

          Ed: This is scary. That is exactly what I DID. About an hour ago. Now I'm sitting around waiting for it to harden up a bit. May or may not get the tile set tonight. Got it flat to within 1/32 inch - I think. At least that is within my capability of working with. I watched my tile setter do our floor, and he had some fairly deep dips to level out. He just slathered on the thinset & laid away. He had a challenge, though. It was obvious watching him.

          Thanks for the poop - really worked out nicely.

          DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!

          1. User avater
            JeffBuck | Jul 04, 2004 08:43am | #5

            was gonna say make the mix fat and thick ... and "flatten" the tiles with a straight edge after they're set ... but before they set ...

            sounds like ya got it done ... and quite well too ...

            anyways ... screw those PITA tile counter tops!

            Most impratical material usage that's come along ....

            grout lines right where ya cut and spill and wipe ...... who's idea was that?

            stick to the backsplash ....

            Jeff

            Buck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

                 Artistry in Carpentry                

  2. andybuildz | Jul 04, 2004 05:51pm | #6

    just curious.

    Why not screw a CBU to the wall and mold the edges?

    The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

    http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

    1. FastEddie1 | Jul 04, 2004 06:20pm | #7

      Why not screw a CBU to the wall and mold the edges?  You might be on to something there.  After the edges are moulded, he can apply a concrete stain and sealer.   Don could start a new fashion trend. 

      Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

  3. davidmeiland | Jul 04, 2004 07:05pm | #8

    Everything I've read about thinset says that it's not to be used as a feather-edge material by itself, as you are describing--a first 'coat' of thinset to build up areas that are low, and then a second 'coat' while you're setting the tiles. I know this is addressed in Michael Byrne's book but I'm too lazy to get up and look for it. The right thing to do is simply build up in needed areas with one coat of thinset as you're setting the tiles. Or, build out with shims behind the backer board so that you've got a flat surface in the first place.

    As far as a gap to the bottom of the first tile, I would leave 1/16 - 1/8" and fill it with colored caulk from the tile dealer that matches your grout. You can work it with a damp sponge the same way you do with the grout, and it will be hard to tell the difference. Try doing that with silicone...

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