I need some back-up on a customer choice that has come back to bite me. They determined that “the floor is the floor and the stairs are the stairs” and that nosing thickness – 3/4″ at the landing and the top “step” onto a bridge/balcony, and 5/4 stair treads didn’t matter. This is how it was installed. A finish carpenter at the job has told the homeowner this was the wrong way to do the nosing, and that it should have been the standard detail of a relieved 5/4 stair nosing the entire length of the balcony and on the landing. Of course now I’m the bad person, shouldn’t have let them make that choice, etc, and am supposed to eat the change to a 5/4″ standard stair nosing (6″ knotty hickory). The floor is already sanded and first coated, so the expense is considerable. I’ve found one article in an archive collection backing up the 3/4″ choice on a landing, but would appreciate hearing from others.
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bump
damn, am I fat!
IMHO 5/4 thruout..I think it looks better being consistent.
Could you glue a strip onto the nose to make it 5/4? Perhaps put some kinda trim around the balcony? I would try to semi salvage tearing it all out and redoing it. But it seems for me anyway, its easier to suck it up, and doing it right makes all parties happier in the end.
Dan
1. That finish carpenter should find his bags filled with sawdust for ratting you out to the HO.
2. Unfortunately he's right.
Consistency is the key. In a "modern" motif, you can get away with 3/4" thickness nosings. But that look requires slim looks everywhere.
Otherwise, stair nosings, floor edgings, nosings, all should be the same, at 5/4.
A mix of both is totally wrong, taste-wise.
But you knew that, right?
While I agree that 5/4 is the way to go, although I have seen it done both ways. , I am more interested in whether you had a discussion on this subject with them .
""They determined that "the floor is the floor and the stairs are the stairs" and that nosing thickness - 3/4" at the landing and the top "step" onto a bridge/balcony, and 5/4 stair treads didn't matter.""
If you told them in the beginning that 5/4 was the way to go and they over ruled you then they should step up and pay.
Tough to get out of the damned if you do damned if you don't situation.
What would they have said if you had ignored their demands.. and done it 5/4 to start with ?
That they were firing you for not obeying their wishes?
And take the finish carpenter outside alone and politely explain to him/her that it is always nicer when subs come to you with the problems/questions so you can deal with them , thats what you are earning your money for, that building is a team effort, then hand him his/her their last check ..... ever.
Edited 12/6/2006 11:38 pm ET by dovetail97128
Don't let subs design your house. If you forget that just remember: don't let subs design your house.
Make sure your subs know that you are the only one designing the house and that it's not up to them to discuss anything with the client unless you want them to.
Did I mention to not let subs design your house?
Ok, so now if the client said they wanted 6'6" doors or any other oddball item simply don't let them. Don't let the client add stupid stuff into your design. If they wanted a cliff right next to the bed simply say that you'd feel more comfortable without it--and stick to your guns.
So far we've eliminated subs from designing the house, and the client isn't allowed to do stupid stuff that doesn't look right because it's simply not right to begin with. Who's left? You.
If you don't want clients busting your chops for letting them do stupid stuff, then you have to know enough to save them from themselves.
Personally, mixing nosing thicknesses is simply cutting corners to use what's easiest, sloppy carpentry, or poor design. I'd point fingers at the person with control over those three items.
Happy holidays.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.