Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 11, 2000 12:23am | #1

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   Are you talking about shoe molding over basemolding?

   If you're talking about shoe molding on an outside corner (looks like quarter round molding?) then just miter the cut at 45%. For inside corner, you can do the same but it will look better if you cope (cut) one piece to the shape of the other.

   If you're talking about something else...I don't know the answer.

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   Guest_ | Mar 11, 2000 12:46am | #2

   *Ryan,I think he means that the outside corner of the wall has a radius. We've been over that at length before. The general take on the subject as I recall was 22 1/2 degree cuts.Ed. Williams

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   Guest_ | Mar 11, 2000 12:53am | #3

   *If the base itself is bullnosed, you either need to find a curved section of shoe to follow the bullnose, try a millhouse, or stop the shoe short of the curve and cut a return. I've seen this detail in the South West parts of the country with the shoe following the curve, but wouldn't know where to find it here(in the North East). Jeff.

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   Guest_ | Mar 11, 2000 03:12am | #4

   *I am the only person in the U.S. who knows this. Now you will too.Buy a holesaw which drills a hole with the exact radius of the corners on the wall. Generally this is a diameter of 1 5/8 inch, maybe 1 1/2 or 1 3/4. You can't do this by measuring. Buy the saw, drill a hole in a piece of 1/2" wood, cut out a 90 degree section and see if it fits. If not, go up or down in size as needed. Now fit the 2 pcs of molding at the corner in question, using a 45 degree miter. This leaves you with a good fitting joint, but there's a hole to be filled up. Nail in one piece of molding. Don't nail the other. Instead, you will fill it with a piece you make as follows.Cut 2 pieces of wood 1/2" thick of the same wood you made the base molding from. Each will be a little over 2"wide and 24" long. Mark one piece to drill along the center line at 1 7/8 apart 2 or 3 times, then the same at 2", then a few times at 2 1/8, then do the same to the other piece a little off the centerline. Now drill them all with the holesaw.You now have two pieces of wood which look like a lattice with big round holes. On the bandsaw, cut between the circles so you have a bunch of thin squares with the centers drilled out. They aren't all the same size because you didn't make the holes in the same places relative to each other, and you were cutting freehand. Now on the bandsaw cut each square into 4 90degree sections. We now have about 100 little pieces of wood which are concave on one side and have a 90 degree angle on the other. There are about 20 different sizes, almost the same.now go back to the corner you didn't nail in. hold the 2 pcs of molding together and hunt through your little pieces until you find one that fits. If it almost fits, you can adjust on the sander or bandsaw.When you've got a fit[alittle tight is good] put cyanoacrylate glue[crazy glue] on the curved side and the straight side that goes against the piece of molding that's already nailed in, and push and hold for 15 sec, level with the top of the molding. Then put glue on the other straight side, fit your other piece of previously cut and fitted molding, and nail it in. If you do this right, and pick the wood to match in color and grain, it's almost invisible and it looks like the wood flows around the corner. I use a glue called 'Zap-a-Gap' which fills gaps OK and which I get at a model airplane store. Also I now put the molding on the wall with the relatively new 2" brads fron the Grizzly $99.00 air nailer. If I did more molding I'd get a PorterCable. With brads instead of a 15 ga finish nailer, you don't have to fill the nail heads unless you're compulsive. When you cut the squares before cutting the little pieces, cut some of them so you just nick the edge of the circle, and some so you leave 1/32 or 1/16".After you've done a room or two, you'll get a feeling for what sizes you have to cut.

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   Guest_ | Mar 11, 2000 03:20am | #5

   *Terry,

   This might help you also. . . . go here.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

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   KILCH_ | Mar 12, 2000 06:22am | #6

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   Terry, on our current job we were supplied with turned peices that match the profile of the base. The inside of the piece matches the metal sheetrock bullnosing. These came from Mount Storm Forest Products in Windsor Ca..

3. 
   Terry_Tracy | Mar 12, 2000 06:22am | #7

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   What is the proper way of making the turn with base molding when the outside corners are bull nosed?
   Thanks in advance Terry