Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 24, 1999 09:47am | #1

   *
   Man, I can't believe I haven't seen a book on converting basements by now. One must exist, this comes up so often. (Double-check the archives.)

   The central Q is moisture control. Is the basement damp/humid?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 01:54am | #2

   *Hi Carl,Check out wallmate styrofoam panels (Dow Chemicals). They fasten directly onto the exterior concrete or masonry wall and the drywall screws to recessed strappings. Makes for a perfect wall system and clean looking.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 04:07am | #3

   *Carl,While I'm not as big a fan of the wallmate system as Gabe is I do use a similar method. I fasten 1 1/2" or 2" t+g Dow styrofoam blueboard to the perimeter walls with PL400 and a few masonry nails as needed. Then frame in front of that with 1 5/8" or 2 1/2" track and stud. There was a recent thread on basement framing check the archives.Gabe, How do you handle the electrical rough in with the wallmate system?Richard Max

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 05:14am | #4

   *Hi Richard,I use shallow boxes with a special sealing flange.I've used a system the same as yours in commercial applications on retrofits. I've even done them where we installed the sm between the metal studs and track for a flush fit. Done others where we glued the sm to the masonry and then glued the drywall to it. Lots of ways of doing it, essentially it varies with the location and site conditions.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 05:53am | #5

   *Does anyone use the white "picnic-cooler" styrofoam (beadboard)? It costs half as much as the blue/pink XPS materials and has almost the same R-Value.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 07:06am | #6

   *Hey Gabe,I guess that would work well. Where do you get the sealing flanges? Does Caddy make them? I don't see them in their catalog...Raco maybe? That was the biggest problem I saw with the wallmate system...cutting in pockets for 1900 or gem boxes and wiring.I always thought it would compromise the thermal barrier. Also the availability of good 1 x 3 stock around here is poor, and if I recall correctly that is what goes in the recesses. I may give it a second look though if I can find those flanges. Sounds like it might save a step. Thanks,Richard Max

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 12:45am | #7

   *Hi Richard,The R-2000 outlet boxes by Reyco Environmental were the ones I used to use but my supplier says they have changed suppliers and will send me the new specs.You can see the boxes being used in a photo at the Guildcrest home site. They are the largest R2000 modular home builder in Canada and their web site features a plant visit.We also take shallow boxes and wrap them in plastic in behind and set them into the styrofoam but I much prefer to leave enough styrofoam in behind to ensure continuety.When I get the new specs, I will post them to you.Gabe

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 12:48am | #8

   *Hi Andrew,NEVER.It has no strenght to fasten drywall to it or it to the masonry and remember it soaks up water or moisture.Gabe

5. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 01:34am | #9

   *Carl, et al. The first thing to consider when converting as basement to habitable--eating, sleeping, and so on--space, is how mcuh insulation the energy codes requires be installed on the foundation walls. In New Hampshire, for example the basement wall must be insulated with an R-18--the same as the above grade exterior walls. In Massachusetts it is R-12 and it obviously varies from state to state. Of course if the building inspector is ignorant of what you are doing it doesn't matter. If he is to be involved you'd better ask him what the energy code requires before you glue any RFBI to the foundation walls. And ask the electrical inspector if he allows shallow pans. GeneL.

6. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 05:45am | #10

   *off topic but related, I just did over my basement, and the bigger problem was the floor. Some folks may remember I posted a question about Delta Fl flooring; I got good responses, and went ahead with it. It's a dimpled plastic subfloor, high density polyethylene, acts as a vapour barrier and the dimples provide airspace for insulation. Great stuff; practically no waste, as the dimples interlock. It is supposed to increase the temperature at the floor by as much as 10 degrees. If you need a subfloor, just lay down your ply on top and screw into the slab. I went with laminate floor (and please, let's not get into that issue), and it just floats on top. Saved me a couple of inches in headroom, which I needed. Quiet once you have the floor down. Good stuff. made by Cosella -Doerkin.

7. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 05:48am | #11

   *Roger that Gabe. Thank you.RM

8. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 05:51am | #12

   *Carl,I forgot to mention this before but some jurisdictions are requiring two exits from basement living space now. If you don't have an exterior door you may have to put in an egress window. Check with your local building department.Richard Max

9. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 1999 08:39am | #14

   *Glad to hear it worked out! I take it that Delta-FL is designed with "moist" floors in mind -- that's why it is set up to ventilate?

2. 
   carl_@_olmsted_carpenters_co | Jul 27, 1999 08:39am | #13

   *
   I looked in the archives and can not really find what i am looking for.
   I am going to convert a basement in Northeast ohio into a family room, I am using metal studs for the whole job.
   What is a good way to do the outside walls for insulation and vapor barrier if needed?

   Thanks