Basement Waterproofing,mold,radon etc…
You`ve heard it before, inside or outside, what do we do?
Well, this will depend on what ‘exactly’ the problem(s) is, it`s the Truth!
To quickly add, most-not all, but many more homewoners than not get water/seepage into their basement-onto the floor from Outside cracks and other openings in the basement wall and/or ‘above’ the bsmt wall.
Vertical,step,diagonal & horizintal cracks and gaps/crevices around gas line or any service line that enters a basement wall,small imperfections in seams of poured walls,imperfections at outside cold joint, along a brick ledge etc. Rod holes in poured walls can `n should be correctly sealed-packed-fully from the Inside.
Above ground entryways for water include openings in mortar joints,loose-cracked bricks,porous-cheap bricks,caulking/replacement needs of basement windows,openings around doors & thresholds,flashings, and even where a hose for a central a/c unit enters the house + several more.
Cracks in poured walls can sometimes be successfully Injected But, i`d say maybe 40% of the time they will re-open, re-crack and leak again within 1-3 years due to Outside lateral or hydrostatic pressure or even tree roots which can crack, bow and even buckle walls inward. Any Inside system-Method does Not relieve/lessen/stop/prevent these Outside pressures, what can help? What is the best remedy? What exactly is lateral & hydrostatic pressure?
http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp <–please read 6th,7th paragraphs
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Task/Inspecting/FoundationFailure.html
http://www.al-home-inspections.com/news-articles/article-4.html
Block basement walls Often have cracks on the Outside and, these same cracks are not visible from the inside of basement. Again, just because you may not see a crack in a block wall on the inside of basement does Not mean there isn`t one outside. These cracks in size can be hairline to 1++ inch wide on the outside and is why many block walls leak. This is how `n where water First enters the hollow cells of block walls and will usually show up inside where the floor and bottom of wall meet…the cold joint.
It is also often why homeowners will see/notice stains,efflorescence,mold,discolorment of wall and is where radon gas and termites enter the hollow cells of bsmt walls.
Mold is one of several things asthmatics,the elderly,pregnantwomen,infants and those with a weakened immune system should not have to deal with. http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/images/moldguide.pdf
Radon causes lung cancer and evidently kills about 21,000 each year, more than drunk drivers and home fires http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html http://cbs2chicago.com/health/local_story_034173519.html
Efflorescence http://www.marshallconcrete.com/41 Termites `n other insects http://www.mipca.org/Termites.htm http://www.ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/centipedeHouse.htm
Tree roots? http://landmarksociety.org/section.html?id=1&uid=1&pageId=7 scroll down a ways…. then please see “Wet Basements” …..they say…..also be wary of waterproofing companies that recommend interior basement perimeter drains and a sump system……….you`ll still have open water in your basement thus, the possibilty of a musty odor and excessive himidity. Yeah, and mold,radon,efflorescence,termites and also hydrostatic-lateral pressure or tree roots against the outside of the basement walls.
Only way to help lessen,relieve,stop,prevent all of these is, an Outside method done and backfilled correctly. When its done right it replaces the soil–any expanding/contracting soil and tree roots with peastone-gravel against the basement wall, it seal/waterproofs the basement wall/ all cracks and entryways below ground are now sealed stopping/preventing further water, mold,radon,termites from entering these openings. No Inside system on the planet can do this!
An Inside drain tile or baseboard + sump system when done correctly will/should keep most-all water Off the bsmt Floor. But it does not stop water etc from entering, does not stop/prevent hydrostatic/lateral pressure or roots from causing further or future cracks-movement. A drain tile & sump system is usually needed in high water table areas and most likely will be needed when a home was built where it probably shouldn`t have been, like on a spring! Even then, when the homeowner has cracks `n other outside openings or wall movement, they will need an Outside method to take care of these other problems.
Some may heard this or variations of….”an outside method in never needed, it was done when the home was built and didn`t work then and won`t work now” and others! Hmmm let`s see http://www.askthebuilder.com/NH058_-_Waterproofing_Foundations.shtml paragh`s 2 and 5 “There is a significant difference between Damproofing and Waterproofing”..and dont forget backfilling! “To permanently stop water and water vapor from entering your foundation walls, you need to Waterproof them. Damproofing is an inexpensive way to meet the lowest minimum standard of the building code.”
Here is one city who knows and is trying to make all Facts accessible to their residents http://www.shakeronline.com/dept/building/FAQ.asp scroll down a lil to –Wet Basements–see especially Q and A 1 and 6 …are sumps allowed? yes but it`s Not the approach we recommend ………what if the problem is not related to surface grading and water is leaking through the foundation? the preferred method of dealing with damp basements is Outside, all the way down (only in areas needed!)…..etc.
good luck for now,gotta go.
Replies
Good stuff LW.
Thanks for posting.
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
Thanks Razz,
have seen too many homeowners get crapped on by unscrupulous inside co`s, i will try `n post a bit more soon. t/c
Thanks for posting.
It's really good to know!