I have a really large hall bath, but no master bath. After living here 5 years, I am now ready to tackle this job. The hall closet will be reduced in size, and the bedroom closet will be removed (I built a walk in closet a few years back on the opposite wall, so this closet is not needed).
Take a look at these PDF files. They are scaled 1/2in – 1ft and show how I will bump out the hall bath doorway (reducing the hallway width), plus remove the walls between the bath and closet and build new ones.
What do you think of this layout? I am going to start demo on Wednesday (permit requires I give 48h notice, and I got it too late on Friday to call then).
Some observations: hall bath toillet may need to be rotated as township requires 21in clearance in front. I cannot move the wall in front as it is hiding the dwv line. It is close an I will take measurements to confirm.
Window height is about 2in too low to allow for vanity sink to be on that wall. (there is one there now offset from window wall by 6in leaving a gap that looks unprofessional.
There is a triple header in the floor running diagonal from side to back of the house that requires that the hall bath toilet not be moved, and will mean that I need an upflush toilet in the master bath.
Was thinking to make master bath door swing in. That adds a little more space in the bedroom.
Anyway, before I got too far into this project, I wanted to get your opinions on the layout.
Replies
HI Matt
After a first look I would reduce the linen closet to about 15 inches deep and slide the hallway door over a little. Master shower could then be opened up or moved some into the back of the new space from the linen closet. Both bathroom are very tight. Make the walls as thin as you can to gain a little more space. Master bath vanity could be a corner unit to feel more spacious
Edited 2/11/2008 8:18 am ET by USAnigel
Edited 2/11/2008 8:21 am ET by USAnigel
Enclosed is one marked up in Acrobat. The original was done in AutoCad (2000) and printed to a PDF file at 1/2in / 1ft scale.
Joists run vertically every 16in, starting at the wall with the window. There is a set of 2 2x10 flat ducts in the linen closet taking AC down to the first floor (not movable) and there is a 4in DWV line that also cannot be moved. (both marked in red)
The hall bath toilet cannot be moved, only rotated (as long as there is 21in clearance), and the door to the master bath cannot be moved, only reversed. Hall doors and closet can be reconfigured.
I like the idea to tuck the shower into the back of the closet, that opens up the room, and I was looking at a corner unit, but on the other hand it only give me more space in the center, with no additional wall space to moce the toilet or sink.
I agree with Aaron that the pedastal sink would be nice by the window, just have to convince my wife that she doesn't need to store so many items by the sink.
I don't want to keep it a single bath anymore, but to save on space I wouldn't be opposed to having a shower stall in the hall bath instead of a tub (already have a tub on the 3rd floor)
Matt trust me anything can be moved it is just the amount of $$$$ of course.Can the ten" duct which I think is labeled in red be routed to inside a wall? Good time to do it while things are torn up.I would make the closet smaller 24" is too deep for linens your wife won't agree but things get lost when that deep.What is the object off the hall bath with the red line, interior wall?Swing the shower door to the towel rack side so your wife won't hit you in the butt while your shaving, when she is getting in and out of the shower. If you swing the door, more money, but use a heavy glass wall on the sink side instead of a framed wall 3/8 to 1/2" or thin line glass block, instead of 3 1/2" to 5" wall . Then if you bump to the closet a bit for the shower, depending where the controls go you could frame a built in shower bench may not be deep to sit on but a place to put a foot when leg shaving, women love these. The controls could be shower to bedroom wall.Flip flop the toilet and sink in the master is an option also, place the toilet facing the window, put the sink where the toilet is, so you stare at the wall with the window to your leftside when at the sink. If I did this I still would change the shower door as described above, since you have the bath door as an outswing there will not be shower door bathroom door conflict. More work could go pocket door. Yes I have tiled over them beefed up the pocket frame with more horizontal slats, durock, construction adhesive short screws. then tile, no problem, tile on both side actually.Have to think a bit on the hall bath.Wallyo
Edited 2/11/2008 2:32 pm ET by wallyo
The ducts can be tucked at the edge of the doorway, or I can make the closet a bit less wide. Easy to hide.
That red line in the interior is two steps up from the landing up to the second floor.
For the shower I was thinking of using one where you enter at a diagonal, so that avoids the door hitting anyone when opened. but that reduces the size of the shower.
I have to look more closely at the drawing with your comments, but they sound like good ideas. Thanks for the feedback.
Personaly I think a shower needs to be larger then 36x36 an off the shelf 36x36 angled shower works where you are real pinched for room. I my self would not put one in unless it was for a guest bedroom or a shower that was not used often. I think a good size is 36+ x 42+, there was a lot of talk on this subject a few weeks back I think the title was what size should a shower be.Since that is a stair it nixes my thought of moving the door to the hall bath down.Wallyo
I thought about moving the door there (would have been ideal), but then there would need to be a step down once you exit the doorway. That seems dangerous, especially with wet feet (and probably is a code violation).
Another idea is to have the master bath only a powder room, makes it less jammed at least.
I would work on a way to keep the shower in the master, resale and convienence.Wallyo
just out of curiosity, what program did you use to draw that?
It looks tight. As suggested, I would shorten the linen closet, but I think I would try to put the toilet there instead of the shower, and put a larger shower where the sink is. Use a pedestal in front of the window, which will look better than a toilet from the bedroom. Storage could go above the toilet, and in medicine cab. above sink.
Hall bath--I would try switching the tub and sink locations.
I think they will be too cramped, especially the one with the tub that doesn't have a window. Would it be out of the question to make one big room instead with two entry doors?
If that is out of the question I would sacrifice the linen closet all together and move the shower into that space, so that at least the master bath feels spacious. You could then move the sink/toilet wall upwards to get more space in the tub bathroom as well.
Matt give us some dimensions anf the floor joist layout. Also anything that can't be moved.
Heres a rough idea for you.
I was playing around with diagonal placement, but never thought of a diagonal partition wall. This looks good, but the problem is that there is a wall I need between the toilet and tub to hide the dwv line.
How do you like Chief Architect? Sure looks nice based on the rendering, I can't do that in Autocad.
If the vent line is just that you could 45 it as it leaves the floor till its out of the way and then 45 again up and out side. Check with plumbing inspector, they can be fussy.
I like Chief because most stuff is made from basic blocks. This way your not drawing lines all the time. Just a click and a drag for size.
The sample program gives you an idea of how to work it. Its almost the same as you would build for real. Build the walls , put in the windows, doors, add some cabinets, etc.
The shower is blocking up the doorway.
Swap the shower for the vanity.
I don't like the big end wall at the head of the tub but it looks like it is there to stay.
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