My 97 year old tub was put in crooked years ago but no one complained because they plastered the walls and could make up the difference of the one inch between the tub and the wall.
I have pics that show the left side of the tub is near flush and the right side is out an inch. What would be a good way to shim the wall so that I dont lose the edge of the tub and my subway tile wont look like
?
Edited 8/31/2007 11:11 pm by bigbossman
Replies
strip the walls...
reset the tub....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Already stripped the walls and that is how I saw the difference in the gap. The tub is set in concrete and I dont want to go the that extreme for the remodel. Any opinion?
I'd just shim the studs out with strips of 1/4" hardibacker then set your plastic and some 1/2" hardi and lay your tiles. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to get it right.------------------
"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
rip a shim to thickness and add it / them to the studs..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Rip strips off 2x4s the correct thickness for filling out each stud. Tack those to the studs. When done, sheath it with backer board. Works best if you have a table saw, but a left-handed circular saw also works well.George Patterson
I had to add a sheet of backer board on top of the other sheet, I use 1/4 inch and then the tile will have a bullnose turn down where it meets the wall
.
Haga su trabajo de fricken
Does the drywall sit right behind the tub when mounted or does it sit right on the lip of the tub when mounted?
Neither. The 6 mill plastic vapor barrier should go on the studs first, then flows down over the lip of the tub to provide good drainage. Ideally, your panel - Hardibacker cement board is far better than drywall - goes over the lip to within an 1/8" of the tub. You fill the gap with silicone after grouting. If you mount the panel on top of the flange, water can more easily get behind the flange, and if you use drywall, you'd better be calm bathers.