The wife wants to run the bead board parallel to the ceiling joists in our new kitchen. I have to agree it feels more natual the way the rooms are laid out. I did a search but couldn’t find anything in the archives although I’m sure this has been discussed.
I know the technique for accomplishing this starts with running strips perpendicular to the joists to nail the bead board to. My question is what material should be used here? I’m thinking it should be more sturdy than mason’s lath (obviously) but don’t know if this should be as thick as a 1x. The cost really isn’t the issue here as the space isn’t that big, I just want to do it cleanly so there is no sagging. Also, I’d appreciate hearing about anything non-obvious that I might run into here.
Secondly, the recessed cans are already in place expecting 1/2″ drywall. I will ask the electrician about how to accomodate this assuming we have 1/2″ bead board + x” furring strips but any input on what is required would be appreciated as well. I’m not sure if I need to lower the cans and attach to the furring strips or whether the trim kits will handle the greater depth.
Thanks in advance,
Jonathan
Replies
You can either strap the ceiling with 1"x3" furring strips, or sheathe it with 1/2" ply, & then install the beadboard. As far as the cans, they should have enough adjustment to accomodate the added thickness of either the ply, or strapping, or be simple enough to drop a bit.
You may also want to check if having (just) a wood ceiling meets code. Around here, we need 5/8" drywall installed under the wood.
Strapping the ceiling is common in your parts. Most regular Breaktimers from New England will say that they use 1x3 pine on 16" centers run perpendicular to truss chords (ceilings with roof over) and floor joists (ceilings with rooms above), and that they do it all the time.
It stiffens up the floor or roof system above, and it gives you the opportunity, through shimming, to get your ceiling base just about perfectly flat.
Take a real close look at your can units. You will probably see an adjustment feature, a screw or screws that, when loosened, allows the can to be raised or lowered. There may be enough adjustment to accommodate your strapping depth.
Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
If height is an issue it is usually possible to install blocks in between the ceiling joists, then add the drywall (if necessary to meet fire code) and beadboard.
Your can lights can probably accommodate adding 1/2- 3/4" of furring or sheetrock.
Wood is Good
Adam Greisz
Owen Roberts Group
10634 East Riverside Drive # 100
Bothell, WA 98011
http://www.owenrobertsgroup.com
Thanks for the replies. Height is not an issue in this case. I hadn't thought of plywood but I think 1x3's will be a little easier to work with. Thanks again!
Check the location and width of lath catchers along the paralell (to joists) walls and soffits so you don't have any surprises installing the strapping. Creative fastening may be necessary.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
You need to put up fire code sheetrock and 1 coat of tape. then 1x3 firring will work just fine. I would glue and space the firring 12" o.c.
If you are before the drywall stage its a snap to lower the cans. You dont want the bulb to have direct contact with the beadboard under the light trim flange. I dont know how many cans you have but you might want to consider swapping them for the "old work" variety.