I’m constructing a second floor for a garge/shop and am using two 5x16x30′ beams with 2×12 joists. Since the beam depth is set at 16″ and the joists at 11 1/4″ what would be the best method to account for the difference (4 3/4″) at the top of the outside walls they rest on (which are 2×6 walls).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Edited 3/17/2005 10:25 pm ET by orion
Replies
Beam pocket recesses at ends
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4-ply built-up columns in walls with full-height studs on either side: beam pocket.
You really should have this thing engineered. That's serious stuff you're playing with and it would be good to know that the forces upon those columns are being properly distributed down below.
Wally
Most of the time with steel, I use it as a drop beam. The joists go over the top. I request the beams to be drilled top and bottom and bolt on a wood sleeper. You can also shoot it on with a Hilti. I always support steel beams with lally columns that run from the beam to the concrete. This only requires a four inch hole in the sleeper and in the sill, notch the bottom plate. You allow for a pocket in the exterior framing. You can keep the top sleeper back so that the double top plate will run over the top.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Like the other guys said - a beam pocket is the way to go.
But the 16" beam spanning 30' bothers me. I hope it's steel?
And as sly_karma pointed out - You're playing with a lot of weight there.
You didn't give us the other dimension of the garage. But I assume it's fairly wide if you're using 2X12 floor joists.
Assuming it's a 30X30 garage with a 55 PSF total design load, you're talking a reaction of 12,375 at each end of the beam. You need a serious post and footing there.