Has to be 5/8 .. I have a 14 X 24 ceiling, joists run the 24′ direction and are strapped every foot in the 14′ direction. Longest drywall we can get arround here is 12′, so I was going to run the drywall lenghtwise with one 14′ long but joint down the middle. Anyone ever try lowering the strapping under the butt joints to bend the drywall and make the joint less visible? I’ve done this with 1/2 but not 5/8, I know anytime the strapping isn’t hard to the back of 5/8 you can just hear all the screws pulling through after. Wetting the back would make it bend the wrong way, wetting the front might cause more harm than good. What say you? Thanks in advance Wane This is not a step
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What about two layers of 3/8?
or Three 1/4?
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021164076.pdf
Go to the very bottom of this article and it shows you how you can do invisible butt joints by joining them INBETWEEN the joists or in your case in between the strapping. Seems like all you would have to do is pull out the strapping at 12 foot leaving you with a space of sligthly less than 24" in which you can use the above technique.
If you are nervous about the 24" then you could always use something wider to strap with on the 11 foot and 13 foot straps like a 1x 6 cheated to the 12 foot side.
I vote with clinkard... three 1/4" sheets would be easy to handle, and likely will give a better looking finished job.
I dont think the origonal poster was talking about a curved cieling, he just wants to bend it upward slightly at the butt joint.
I h ave done exactly as you wish to do with 5/8" drywall. Mine was a flat ceiling, and the butt joint was going to land on a strap. So I recessed the strap about 1/8 or 3/16 below the surface of the other straps, and hung the drywall. Worked perfectly: no cacking or tearing of the drywall. You may wish to go easy with the first couple or three screws: run all three in until they touch the drywall surface, then tighten them evenly by hand, first one and then the next, .., repeating until they are all down tight. This avoids putting all the pressure on one screwhead.
Bob Chapman
thanks all, your correct it's
thanks all, your correct it's not a curved cieling just the but joints. I've just never tried this with 5/8 and as you know it's really stiff!
I mis-read the o.p. My mistake.
I I think it would be possible to slightly bend it backwards, to create a recess, by raising..not lowering the strapping! lol.
I would stager the but joints and not have a long but joint.
A good taper should be able to flair the joint out enough to hide the butt joint.
Run the rock ends to the middle of the rafter span, and use these a ButtHanger: http://www.rocksplicer.com/butthanger/butthanger.html
They essentially create a tapered edge butt joint.