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What is the best caulk to weather proof the small gap between wood windows/doors and brick veneer? Durability and looks are my main concern. The windows are factory finished with some kind of epoxy like finish. The gap is about a max of 1/8″ wide. I was thinking that some clear polyurethane caulk would be the easiest to do a neat job, especially since there is no painting to do – at least at the windows. I’m in the mixed heating/cooling climate of NC.
Thanks
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I like Geocell 2300. It comes in a wide variety of colors(including clear), stays flexible, and has exellent adhesion. You can't ask for more than that!
John
*JRS:Thanks for the suggestion."Geocell 2300"?? What type of caulk is this... polyurethane? Silicone? Butyl ? What brand is it? - Geocell?
*The brand name is Geocell, the specific product is 2300 and it is called a "tripolymer sealant". Can't tell you any more about the chemistry. I don't see it at DIY type retailers, you'll probably have to check with a supplier that specializes in roofing and siding products. I don't have tube or literature in front of me to give you an address or number. If you come up empty let me know.John
*It's pretty tough to beat Tremco DyMonic polyurethane for outside use on masonry.
*The polyurethanes do seem well on masonry. i used Vulkem, the smell of which made me want to vomit, but it has held up very well. Not sure if it comes clear -- though i would suggest using a colored caulk...
*Andrew:The gap between the wood windows, doors and the newly installed brick veneer is very small. They laid the brick right up to the wood (all of which was primed and well painted). No backer rod necessary. I was thinking that a clear caulk would preserve the nice crisp line of the white wood against the brick. I like finish work to be as close to perfect as possible, and although I'm pretty good with a caulk gun, going up against the brick, what with the mortar joints and all, I was thinking that the "nice crisp line" would be lost with a colored caulk.Since my original posting of this thread, I have found out about elastomeric (sp?) caulk, which comes "crystal clear", some is presented as "50 year", and is recommended by the BIA (Brick Institute of America). I am thinking of using this. Both Red Devil and DAP have versions of this. Or, I may go with the polyurethane if I can find some clear.
*If a clear caulk is your preference, you may wish to consider Lexel by Sashco. It's a bit pricey, but it sticks very well -- to masonry, fingers, clothes, etc. -- and it can be used in lower temperatures than standard caulks, should your project get delayed a few months.
*I have a tube of Lexel -- it was quite pricey if I recall -- I'm keeping it around like a bottle of champagne for the right occasion.Matt, most of the "clear" caulks don't stay entirely so, and you can still perceive them (if you're that picky) because of sheen or yellowing. I rarely rely on my gunning skills alone, much improved though they are, because particularly on rough surfaces it is easy for a beautiful bead to fall an invisible quarter-millimeter short of one of the surfaces. Polyseamseal is my current favorite because it is very very easy to tool and, so far, has proven tougher than other latexes (and mistakes come off with a wet cloth). Polyurethanes and especially silicones are a pain to work with.Lexel promises it all, I've just been too cheap to put it to the test. It even comes in a clear tube!