Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 06, 1999 04:11pm | #1

   *
   Tom,

   My first question is what are the doors finished with. Make sure it isnt laquer or acrylic. If it is laquer I (not likely) I would recomend spraying with colored laquer. If it is acrylic use acrylic on top. If it is a Poly or varnish the shellac will work. But it is a pain to work with because it drys so fast. I would recommend scuffing the surface first then applying a good acrylic latex primer then covering with a good acrylic latex paint. These will not tend to bleed through and yellow over time. I prefer Sherwin williams. The paint is just as good and a lot cheaper than Ben Moore. Use the best contractor grade or the super paint. They are almost identical but the superpaint is marketed to consumers so it is more expensive.

   Rick Tuk

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 06, 1999 06:53pm | #2

   *In a situation like this I would use a primer from the Wm. Zinsser Co. Try 1-2-3, or bullseye.Check the website,sorry I don't have the URL.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 06, 1999 08:24pm | #3

   *I would personally never use an acrylic enamel on an exterior door. In my two experiences with this, I found that the paint would never harden sufficiently, and it would pull off after contacting the EPDM weatherproofing gasket. This was very high quality paint, also. Stick with alkyd. Also, use a quality alkyd primer, not BIN. Some painters will recommend a spit coat primer of part primer and part finish coat.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 06, 1999 11:12pm | #4

   *Hello, Since I paint these types of doors (stained and sealed) on a regular basis (about 10 a month)I am going to tell you how I do it. This is NOT saying everybody else is wrong, or that my way is better, just different. I have found climate plays a major part in whether or not the paint job will last, so some people may do it a bit different for a reason. I have tried every combination of primer, selaer, and top coat that you can imagine. What I finally settled on as the best overall, easiest to use, and longest lasting (for my region) is this:1. Prime with an oil based primer. I really like Zinsser brand H2Oil Base. It is an oil base with a pleasant smell, and can be cleaned up pretty easily with HOT WATER and soap. The oil base primer will actually bond itself with the shellac, laquer, or poly finish coat already on the door. It also chemically bonds itself to the stain. This will prevent bleed through into the topcoat. When priming the doors, a thin coat is not acceptable. When you have put the final coat (I recommend two) of the primer, the door should look like you have painted it white. If it looks kinda opaque, you need another coat. 2. Topcoat can be anything you want. If I am spraying, I prefer oil based enamels. They tend to look glass smooth, and shine very well. They are a pain to clean up, but the looks are great. If I am brushing, I use a premium grade Acrylic Enamel. The acrylic enamels are top notch paints nowadays, and have surpassed most alkyds for quality (blame the EPA). When brushing, thin the paint, apply two or even three coats, and use a pro quality brush. It makes all the difference in the world. As far as paint brands are concerned, I have done tons, and tons of research, and have literally found that all major brands, and even some off brands are equal in quality. There is no need to spend an outrageous amount of money on paint. Stick with a brand and type of paint that fits your budget. Beware of lower end lines, no matter what brand you choose.Again, this is how I do it, and it is not the ONLY way. It is a suggestion, or a bit of personal inside info, and nothing more. Good luck, and I hope all turns out well.James DuHamel