Best typeof wood touseon cathdrlceilng?
I have a presale client who wants a cabin look in his Family room with some type of wood ceiling rather than drywall. I need some serious proven techniques of installation and type of wood to use . The client wants 4-5 inch redoak hardwood flooring and something on the ceiling that would match . The ceiling has 2×10 on 16 in cneters peaking at 24 ft high.
Replies
How about 1x6 t&g hemlock or knotty pine? I've put up miles of that stuff on ceilings... blind staple thru the tongue just like flooring. Find out if you're going to need poly behind it first.
This is Eastern White pine 1x6 t&g with Cabot interior stain base (water based) brushed on and not wiped off before installation. DW and I put up about a mile of it.
Would that be linear miles or square miles. I'm talking square...
I am only talking linear, I bow to the King! But this is only my own house.
and did you drywall first. another thread got me wondering if its neccesary
Never heard of drywalling first. But I did not know beans when I did it, did not have access to BT (did not know it existed). I put up 6 mil poly and did not take any great pains to protect it while nailing/prying the 1x6s into submission. I did (had) dens blown cellulose to r-41 on top after install. I was more concerned with dust infiltration from the cell. Have not seen any problems.
I have some mildew problems on the two porches, wish I had loaded up with mildewcide there. First gallon had it in it and wife did not like staining in the basement because of the smell. Will attend to it in spring. One porch is screen with Jacuzzi so it is a little extreme to include North side. But that is the price to sit in the tub and look at the highest point east of the Rockies.
Yeah.... the King of Stiff Neck.
Understand that! Did you start at bottom or top? I can see advantages to both. Actually only advantage I can think of is to have someone else do it.
Start at the bottom, but pull reference lines from the ridge rather than simply assuming the wall is parallel.
That's what I did except for the great room where the span is 38'. I wanted the apex to come out even from both sides. Started at the bottom on one side but continued from top down the other. I used a small mull strip to cover the joint but could have left it off.
There are various things that might matter. Sometimes the architect or owner wants the recessed cans to center on a joint or in a board. Sometimes they want a full piece to start and/or finish. The easiest thing is usually to make a story pole, mark off the joint layout, and work with that everywhere you go, with the occasional stringline pulled out to make sure everything's straight. T&G ceilings are big out here, in fact a house I'm looking at calls for all ceilings to be 1x4 T&G.
Nice work.
That looks like a white wash, which is also what I am looking for. Do you have the color of the Cabot stain?
Thanks,
Mark
It is the water based 2110 pastel base, straight out of the can. It really gives it a nice soft look and lets the knots look back at you.
Glad to help.
Thanks much!
Mark
How about using 4-5 inch red oak hardwood flooring, run it through a thickness planer (with brand new blades) install it on the ceiling and stain it the same as the floor? The perfect match. No shrinkage. Happy client.
I did it on a job in Greenwich, CT. The look was crazy nice.
The CM
Rather thann run it through the planer, just buy 5/16 - 3/8" prfinished engineered red oak flooring.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Even better.
The CM