Best way remove plaster/wood/metal lathe
jackstraw
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
We’re working in a house from 1770 and are renovating three bath’s . Not really what I do but it was one of the ones you can’t get away from.
Attached to the solid oak 3×4 hewn studs is wire mesh, wood lathe and then something that is harder than plaster and more like concrete.
Hammering the ‘crete off works , but creates a unbelievable amount of debris, and then you still have to remove the wood and metal.
That’s fine for a total demo but what if you need to make a hole for a high-hat or something. Hammering a hole just makes a bigger hole and cracks and unstable surrounding areas.
I was using a grinder with a diamond bit yesterday. It worked fairly well but bogged out on occasion.
Any ideas or thoughts ??
Edited 7/20/2006 5:47 am ET by jackstraw
Replies
It is concrete that's why. Many older houses with add ons used portland in the baths and kitchens, and I have found it other places as well. You're doing the only thing you can do outside of ripping it all down. Diamonds are a guys best friend.
I just finished a bath remodel with this same material. It is the 3rd one I've done. I only do them for customers that I've worked for before and really like - or for my wife's family. I use the diamond blade and grinder approach. If I have to strip the wall and floor and ceiling, as I did in this last job I use the grinder to cut about 18 inch squares and then take the squares out. Easier that picking up all the broken tile and concrete debris.
This last job had tile, mastic, concrete and lath so thick that I had to use the 7 inch grinder to get deep enough cuts so I was down to the studs. It gets very dusty, but if you can run a shop vac hose through the window and have a helper hold the hose to the grinder you can lessen it.
You need a small demo hammer! Bosh, Hilti, whatever.
Rent one.
Save as much wood or metal lath as possible.
You'll need to tie into that with your new lath before you patch.
TRIGGER
Yeah a diamond wheel on a grinder or even your beater circ. saw (for stability and cut depth) makes a lot of dust, but it's the best way for sure. You can hook a shop vac next to the cut while you establish the perimeter.
The only problem with the diamond blade is the wood lathe -it burns rather than cuts. If you set your depth to the concrete only, you can finish the cut with a sawzall at a low angle to free the lathe from the studs and then just pry and hammer the whole panel out as one.
If'n it still don't cooperate, air chisels are cheap, effective and make a cool noise!
If there is an attic above, I'd go upstairs and use my size 15 boot to remove the stuff. You are above the mess and your arms are not above your head all day. No rental fee on your boot either.
Edit: Use a 2x12 across the ceiling joists as a catwalk for your demo work.
Can't you hear the violin playing your song.
Edited 7/21/2006 8:31 pm ET by Stilletto