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Does anyone out there have some helpful hints? I need to cut Formica counter tops to size for a remodel. What is the best way to do so without splitting or damaging the surface? I don`t have a radial arm saw. I do have a 10″ sliding miter saw and circular saw. Also, What should I use for a blade?
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I've only done this a couple of times, used a router.
*I always use a table saw to cut formica, but if all you have is a hand saw you could get in big trouble cause the blades going the wrong way... Score the line real good with a carbide tip and put a line of duct tape down the good side. Then cut away being very careful not to go over the line.
*I've always used a saw made for cutting pvc pipe. Never had a problem with splitting or damage of any kind. Cut to rough size with the saw, glue down, and use a router to trim it flush.If yer talking about cutting the whole countertop, the pvc pipe saw will do that as well. Easily !!I think the real tip is... Take your time. Don't expect to cut it as fast as a piece of plywood. Patience. Set aside a few minutes, and take your time cutting it with the plastics saw.
*A sabre saw with guide will work fine as long as you have a decent blade. I usually use an old cut-off piece of countertop placed upside down on the countertop for the guide. Some 1x2's can also be used, just make sure to screw them onto the waste end of the countertop. 2 other things: make sure you are cutting from the backside, and that counter is well supported for the last few inches of cut.
*This will work with what you got. Assuming a finished countertop. Cut from underside with a circular saw/24tooth carb blade. Place top upside down on a solid surface you can cut into. Build up any non built up area under where your saw will run. Screw a "fence" to the bot. of the counter to guide your cut. You might want to cut through the splash first (if its part of the top) at a deep setting to cut through the coved area. Enter the work at the finished edge so you don't chip it out. Keep both sides of the work well supported. After that cut, go at the bottom of the deck the same way. Enter at the finished edge and cut to the previous kerf. Make your cuts maybe a healthy 1/8th in. long and dress it up with a belt sander after you flip it right side up. This method is for cutting to length not for miters or joining two pcs. together. Best of luck.
*To give an option to Chris' suggestion: you can cut from the top if you use a reverse jigsaw blade, which are widely available. (For use with a $150-200 jigsaw such as Bosch. Don't use a $39 Black and Decker, they bounce around too much). And as has been said, go slow and use a very secure guide. And if you have an extra inch or two, do a few practice cuts.
*I'm not sure I understand this, but why not keep it simple. Hack it to rough size, about 10- 20 mm too big with any cutting tool to hand, such as a Stanley knife, all the way through to a table saw. Lay it and trim it with a router fitted with a trim bit. A bit of filing and Bob's yer Uncle. That will get rid of any spelch at the show side, and the upstand and sealer hides any spelch at the back. If you are going to use a saw blade, a triple chip grind (TCG) is as good as anything. Sliante.
*Calvin is right...cut it from the backside with a circular saw...or..use a downstroke blade in your jig saw.
*mark,I rented a rotozip once(a small handheld router type tool with a narrow file blade that rotates to beat hell), great for making your bulk cuts, then once you put it on the counter finish with a "sharp" router with ball bearing bit. after cemented of course. this tool is great for doing wall plugs if you use formica for a backsplash for example.guys, a table saw works good but what if you have a u-shaped kitchen counter layout and you want to use all of a 5x10 sheet. ie maximize without waste... a table saw would be too difficult and a circular saw might cause too much waste. TDC
*Mark,I used calvins method for years when I installed cabnets and tops in HUD apartments. Fine tooth circular saw blade (carbide) and carefull set up will get it done. If you are cutting to lenght between two walls and there is already a sink cutout you need to cut both ends to keep the sink where it is suppose to be (experience). The reverse jig saw blade cuts on the down stroke so it can be used fron the finish side of the slab. I still have a supply I bought from Skill years ago. Don't know if they are still available. I'm guessing, but it sounds like you are cutting pre-manufactured tops from a local supply store. If it is a HD, Lowes, etc. have them cut it to your size. Good luck,Dave
*I would definitely let someone else do it. Take a look in the phonebook for someone who does countertop fabrication and ask if they have a countertop saw. This is a saw that can cut any angle up to a 42" top. You will want to mark the angle and they can line the laser to it and zip it off. A whole kitchen can easily be cut in less than an hour. This includes routing out for splines and countertop bolts. Believe me, any other method is nothing but a headache in a nightmare. This is the only way to go when you have to deal with drops and backsplashes already on.
*Chris, if you're cutting sheet goods in an L. Layout the sheet and mark lines maybe 1" oversized from the counter deck. Drill a 1" hole in the inside corner of the lam with a bit with a spur. I've got some old stanley (forstner style) bits I use. Spose a hole saw would work. Make sure of a solid block underneath to drill to. Circular saw it to the hole but don't go any further than the hole. Cut in from both ends. Solid backer below the cut too. Cut should be bigger than the top to allow routing after glue up, but you knew that. The round hole will keep the sheet from cracking. After routing the top, file the edge but don't touch the inside corner. Leave that slightly rounded, what the small non bearinged bit would leave. Even after glue up, and the top is fastened down, a sharp inside corner can more easily allow a crack outta that corner as things move around. Hope this helps.
*Thanks calvin, didn't think of doing it that way...have to try it next time.Cheers TDC
*I cut plam two different ways, depending on where I am working. If I'm in the shop, outdoors, or somewhere dust and flying chips are not a problem I use a table saw, or a skill saw and cut from the back. I use the slitter that came with my PC laminate trimmer kit to rip self edges and backsplashes in that case too. I always thought that was one of those b.s. attatchments until I tried it recently, I love it. You can shave as little as 1/16" off an edge with that thing, great tool.More cases than not I'm in a situation where flying dust and chips are a major concern (like redoing an existing top, or a lived in remodel). In that case I use a couple hand tools that are slower, but control the mess a lot better. One is a slitter made by Virutex. With extensions you can cut a slit up to about 4" wide. The other tool is a pair of laminate shears made by Klenk Tools, in Wilm. DE (that's all it says). These shears have three jaws, kind of like the shears tin benders use, the center one is on top and the two bottom ones are stationary. You can buy either of these tools at any flooring wholesaler. I have cut miles of plam with the shears and they still cut great. The slitter I can't say as much about, but it works.
*Per-formed counter tops are best cut with a special saw that counter top shops have. I take mine there & they cut it for 18 bucks. I have cut them slightly over length & then sanded to the line with a big belt sander sins 60 grit belts.
*jim.. we use the virutex (that's the spanish one , right ? )... slitter... all my contractin buddies borrow it when they get plam... cut most of our sheet goods like calvin.... but all the strips are with the virutex.....nice...and the scribes are cut like larry .... with a belt sander....can't help much with the pre-formed.. i've done about two in my life..most of our tops are plam on 3/4 ply......the next choice seems to be ceramic tile... and then granite...the solid surface are too pricey since they require factory certified installers..... it's just as cheap to go granite....
*I cut laminate strips on my table saw. I have a piece of aluminium angle so the p-lam doesn't get under the fence. I have slitters. A hand model & a bench model. I prefer the table saw. Faster!Use a good triple chip cabinet blade.
*Jim, tell me about the virutex extension. Purchased or adapted? Have had the slitter for years but was always puzzeled why it only cut to what? 3" wide? Shoulda asked sooner. Thanks.
*I bought mine when I bought the tool BC. You know the allen screws that hold the cutters on? Well you remove those screws and the cutters. These spacers, which kind of resemble 3/4" thick washers, go where the cutters used to be, and you reposition the cutters, but now they are 3/4" farther out from the fence.Just find a dealer and they'll have the extensions on a card. It's been so long since I bought mine I can't remember for sure, but I think they were around ten bucks.But hey, seriously, if you have one of those PC plam trimmers everyone has, and think that slitter insde the cover is some b.s. attachment, give it a try. My Virutex has been acting up, even with new cutters, so I tried that thing last month out of desperation, and it works like a dream. I wish I'd tried it years ago. And as long as we're talkin' plam, one of the best tips I ever got online was to try that solid bit that came with that trimmer in place of the bearinged bits I've used for 20 years. A little vaseline and that thing works great. Several guys have recommended it but Adrian was the first I remember reading. Now, what's this about "air files"? How big a compressor do you need? Is it like pneumatic sanders that need the big resevoir, or can you use one with a portable compressor? "Bob's yer uncle"? What frikkin' language is THAT?plam tip - I have a 12 foot length of ABS pipe with threaded caps on each end I store and transport metal plam trim in. In between jobs I slide it up in the collar ties in the shop. The few times a year I need that type trim, I slide it into the truck amongst all the other crap, and the pipe protects the metal.
*i ""Bob's yer uncle"? What frikkin' language is THAT?" English, Jim. English.Snip, snip and Bob's yer Aunty is another version. It has a reference to vasectomies. Sliante.
*what the hell's wrong wit yur memory , blodgett.. din't you watch monty python when you was growing up back east ?course , if you wanna do things the hard way.. then bob ain't your uncle......
*...well, what if Bob's yer uncle AND your father? That would be baaaaaad.
*must be from Kentucky.........no offense to those unrelated folks from there.
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Does anyone out there have some helpful hints? I need to cut Formica counter tops to size for a remodel. What is the best way to do so without splitting or damaging the surface? I don`t have a radial arm saw. I do have a 10" sliding miter saw and circular saw. Also, What should I use for a blade?