Best way to drill through stone/concrete
Pondfish
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m a finish carp who, for my next project, needs to drill some 2″ diameter holes through bluestone and into concrete (total depth over 4-5″). This is what the arch has specified for anchoring a shower stall onto an existing patio using 1″ threaded rod (epoxied into the stone/concrete).
What’s the best tool/approach for this task? A rotary hammer seems like the tool, but to do a 2″ hole sounds more like drilling with a diamond tipped hole saw.
No matter what, I need to find a way to get he boss to pay for a drill bit I’m not likely to use again…
Recommending the use of “Hide Signatures” option under “My Preferences” since 2005
Replies
I'd think about the only way is with a core drill bit. Getting him to pay is a thread for the business folder. LOL
Wake me up before you go-go.
1-800-$$$-$$$$
Call a sub-that does concrete coring and cutting.
Might be less than the cost of the bit.
A good rental yard will rent core bits, I know mine does. I'm not sure if they're sds-plus or sds-max. Either way, it's cheaper to rent the bit and the drill than it is to buy the bit.
Then again, it's probably worth looking on ebay.
zak
"so it goes"
You may be able to rent a hilti with a 2" bit cheep enough.
Bill is right on this one. If the architect specified 2" round holes, he probably means it. A diamond core bit will cut through not only concrete but also steel corrugations, rebar and electrical pipes and even live wires.
I would question why 2" hole is specified for a 1" all-thread for epoxy. I would think a smaller hole should suffice. For that matter, why 1" for a shower stall?
~Peter
I would question the architect about needing a hole so much bigger than the rod. Generally the hole is just enough larger than the rod so that it goes in without forcing.
A core drill is the best way to make a 2" hole. The can be rented for about the same cost as any tool rental.
Thanks all for the responses. I'll suggest a rental to the boss and ask the archie about the hole size. I didn't mind the larger hole, as it makes it easier on me for lining up pre-assembled wall panels with the 1" rod sticking out of the bottoms of the posts.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
"I would question the architect about needing a hole so much bigger than the rod. Generally the hole is just enough larger than the rod so that it goes in without forcing."
The epoxy needs the space to bond to itself. That is a typical recommendation for epoxy embedded fasteners.
1" fasteners do sound like overkill for this purpose, though we do not know the specifics.-The poster formerly known as csnow
You may want to ask the architect what specific system he wants you to use. We have placed many epoxy set bolts and the recommended hole size for the rod is 1/8" larger than the rod. Any of the epoxies we have used, won't fill a 2" hole around a 1" rod. One of the most important issues is to clean the hole. 1" rod is overkill and a half. We set angle iron brick ledgers on commercial jobs with 5/8". The depth of the hole is probably more important than diameter. Add extra bolts if there is unusual weight.
http://www.epoxysolutions.net/rebar_doweling_jt.html
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
what kind of shower stall needs that kind of anchoring and why is it on thr patio?
i use hilti hit all the time if memory serves me correct 1/2 rod glued 6" into solid concrete has a 15000 lb rip strength and 5/8 rod is 18000 lb. reps say concrete fails before rod or glue after that.
is this shower stall suspended and for cleaning big rigs?
Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
pond... ifn it was me and i had to epoxy a 1" threaded rod..
i'd drill a 1 1/2" hole , cause that's the biggest rock bit i've got..that will give me 1/4" of epoxy all around
now .. if the specs called for a 2" hole and the spec was backed up by engineering instead of by-guess.. then i'd buy a 2" diamond hole saw and charge it to the job.. it will go thru the bluestone like butter..
and the concrete won't phase it much either
There are two ways to go, a carbide bit that pretty much destroys all the material in its path, and leaves a slightly rough hole, or a diamond hole saw, that cuts out a core and leaves a smooth internal surface. The diamond ones are more expensive.
I got a 2 1/2" carbide head on a 24" shank from:
http://www.relton.com/
Click on the little "carbide" picture near the center top, then scroll down a little over 3/4 of the way. List for my combination is now $284, you could get by for $237.
In my case, the one bit is going to do it for the water line, a couple of electrical conduits, and maybe even a lawn sprinkler pipe. With concrete, it often doesn't much matter if you use a bigger hole than you need, especially if it gets buried. So, if you have it in your bag of tricks, you may find more uses for it in the future.
-- J.S.
Edited 5/17/2006 9:03 pm ET by JohnSprung